Amuse-bouche

Art Culinaire, Fall, 2003

small FOOD

is the ever-popular small bite of food, typically known as amuse-bouche, an offspring of the hors d'oeuvres mentioned in August Escoffier's culinary masterpiece, Le Guide Culinaire? The answer to that question is not entirely clear-cut, but Escoffier's hors d'oeuvres were most likely precursors to these small bites of food that are popular additions to contemporary dining. The beauty of these delicious morsels is that they serve several purposes: They give the diner an impression of the chef's style, highlight seasonal foods, encourage feedback from diners, and serve as a trial balloon to test-market new menu items.

Although Escoffier may have considered hors d'ouevres an adjunct to the main meal, over the years chefs have reconsidered the role of hors d'ouevres and tailored them to what we now refer to as amuse-bouche or "small food." Legendary food writer M. F. K. Fisher has likened small food served before the main course to an operatic overture. She goes on to state, "As such, [small food's] variety is infinite, dictated of course, by the seasons as well as the regions where the food is eaten." In all likelihood, both Escoffier and Fisher would concur that almost any menu item can be served as a small food, simply by altering portion size.

Amuse-bouche has been described as "little bites of food to amuse the mouth, invigorate the palate, and whet the appetite, as served in fine restaurants." In informal settings, they're also referred to as amuse-gueule or amuse, "casual little bites to whet the appetite before a meal, typically served in a bistro or brasserie. "All variations stem from the word "amuse" and their purpose is to appeal to the diner's sense of humor and to "supply amusement or diversion by specifically being prepared in contrived methods." Whether you label these culinary jewels amuse-bouche, appetizers, hors d' oeuvres, small bites, canapes, mezze, or small food, their primary gastronomic mission is to wake up your palate with their intense and concentrated flavors, no matter where they end up in the course of your meal.

First Impressions

Appearing on restaurant and catering menus alike, small food serves a multitude of functions. Served at the beginning of a meal, it satisfies the curiosity of a diner as he or she samples a taste of a chef's cuisine. It's just one of the varied ways for a diner to get an impression of a chef's style of food.

Offered between courses, small food serves as a makeshift tasting menu and has additional virtues that shouldn't go unnoticed, as well. One advantage of serving small food between courses is to enable the chef to look at a diner's menu choices and choose a small food based on these choices. As an added benefit, chefs will often serve small food to preferred or regular patrons that frequent their establishments. It's just one "small" but meaningful way to show appreciation to their loyal guests.

The custom of ordering several small food items rather than one large entree has been has been popular since the 1990's. Sometimes referred to as "grazing," this style of dining allows patrons to sample more flavors, enjoy a more varied meal, and share in a communal style of eating.

The Spice of Life

Chefs use a wide array of ingredients in preparing these small treats and, in turn, this diversity opens the door for unique presentations. Although many chefs use foods that can be typically found in a walk in or pantry, some chefs delight in special ordering unique and often expensive ingredients to help showcase their talents. Others glory in the process of putting an unusual twist on both classic and contemporary fare. The range of small food is infinite; it serves as a great prelude or intermission to a meal, and when executed well, showcases a chef's creativity, knowledge, sense of taste, and--perhaps--artistic touch.

Because of its versatility, it's not hard to imagine why small food is so engaging. For the most part, diners are more than willing to indulge in food that they might normally consider off limits--if it's served in a bite-sized portion. Who doesn't enjoy the prospect of unwrapping these provocative jewels that delight all the senses? These little gifts from the chef prove that "the best things come in small packages."

anita LO

restaurant Annisa is much like the chef that runs it--intimate, gracious, warm, and inviting. Chef Anita Lo has found her calling in a kitchen whose size borders on that of a typical walk-in closet. Luckily, file size of her kitchen does not dictate the type of food she creates; she has reached her goal of serving "food that tastes delicious first of all, is interesting, and makes sense," with diners and critics alike extolling the virtues of her great tasting food on a regular basis.

Chef Lo's journey has taken her down a path that she initially never thought of while attending college. It was only after graduation that she Rot the "food bug" and went the route of so many other famous chefs--working in the best possible restaurants both here in the States and in Europe: "I've been interested in food pretty much since I graduated from college; it was the road I wanted to take. I had been studying French and had gotten my degree. I attended La Varenne for four weeks while in still in school. Since I had done the language program, I had decided to go back to France to continue my verbal skills and ended up going to cooking school instead. After graduating from cooking school, I worked at Bouley and believe it or not, did canapes (They're going to haunt me for the rest of my life!). But it was interesting because we did a large variety of these small foods on a daily basis. I was at Bouley for about a year and then went back to France and got a degree from the Ritz Escoffier. From there, I ended up at Chanterelle and worked with David Waltuck when he was on the line--that was a great experience. After working at a couple of more places, I was finally able to open up my own place. It's been wonderful to have complete freedom and control--I think the food is more a part of who I am at Annisa."