Amuse-bouche

Art Culinaire, Fall, 2003

When asked about the feeling of many in the industry that small food or a chef's cuisine is a window into his or her culinary soul, Chef Lo laughs quietly. No stranger to this subject, Lo is quick to give her opinion on the matter: "I've heard chefs say things like--which I think is ridiculous--that everyone knows me intimately by eating my food--this sounds pretty self-important to me. I wouldn't say my personality comes through in my food, but maybe it's reflected in the fact that I'm well traveled. I think that interest of mine sort of comes through by sheer means of my exposure to so many different ingredients."

david WALTUCK

david Waltuck is not your typical grew up around gourmet food or the restaurant business; he didn't even have a mentor to inspire him. However, his intelligence and passion for food were enough to guarantee his success in the restaurant industry. After trying his hand at biological oceanography in college, Waltuck traveled throughout Europe for six months. It wasn't until then that he decided to begin cooking professionally. After gaining experience in a restaurant in New York City, he decided to attend The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York. A student externship led him to Tavern on the Green in New York City, and even though he returned to school for a short time, he decided to withdraw because he felt he could learn more by working in his chosen profession. After a two-year stint at La Petite Femme in New York City, he decided to open up Chanterelle in Soho in 1979. However, after staying in the thirty-seat restaurant for nearly ten years, he and his wife, Karen, moved Chanterelle to a larger location in TriBeCa.

Although Chanterelle has changed locations, the style of Chanterelle's classical French cuisine has changed very little. According to Waltuck, "The main change is that there are a lot more things available to work with now than in 1979. Also, I think that I'm a little more open to different cuisines and ingredients that are not from the European realm of food. I like strong flavors and powerful sauces. I don't go in for very elaborate presentations; I like a certain level of simplicity on my plates." Just like Waltuck's personality, his food portrays itself modestly: "My food doesn't go out of its way to call attention to itself. There are layers of flavor and there's a certain intelligence that informs [customers] why things are on the plate and why things are put together. It's really thought-out and that also reflects my personality."

In fact, the whole restaurant seems to reflect Waltuck's personality. He says, "The feel of Chanterelle ... the dining room ... the service ... the ambiance ... I think is very different than any other restaurant in the sense that there's a calm about it even at its busiest."

Waltuck is still just as passionate about the restaurant as he was the day he opened it. "We're constantly working on making it better. We never thought we were there; we still don't. We always think there's more to do," says Waltuck. His determination and hard work ensure Chanterelle's rating as one of the top restaurants in New York City.