"This is as panicked as I get!" Alessandro Stratta - Cover Story

Art Culinaire, Winter, 2003

Renoir Restaurant

Las Vegas

He says it with a huge smile on his face and glass of wine in his hand. His sous-chef, Dan Rossi, from Cleveland, calls Alex an "anomaly" in the context of chefs. "He's not a screamer." Guess that's why this, and several other employees, have followed Alessandro Stratta from Mary Elaine's in Arizona, to Las Vegas. More specifically, to the Mirage Hotel and Renoir. But this isn't the only reason.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

It's been quite a journey for this half-Italian (from his father), half Frenchman (inherited from his Mom). From both, he takes a world wind of traveling experiences and six generations of hotel and restaurant wisdom. Although born in Wisconsin, Alessandro Stratta has called Pakistan, Malaysia, and Mexico his "home" over the years. "Home" has also meant living in a series of hotels until the age of 14.

Maybe this is part of the reason Alex is comfortable here at the Mirage Resorts and Casino.

"My father ran hotels--he was a suit-and-tie guy. I never saw myself this way. I was more intrigued by the kitchen. I heard the noise--the clinging and clanging, smelled the fires, saw the steam ... Everything was such a panic, I wondered what was going on back there?"

He found out.

Ironically, his description of the kitchen is far removed from his mild-mannered persona.

"There's no room for screaming in a kitchen. I've worked for screamers my whole life. If you have someone on your back, you're not going to perform. If you're intimidated or too worried about getting yelled at, you're not going to be able to do your best or express yourself (within the perimeters of what I do.)"

He calls his relationship with his kitchen staff a "two-way street." He expects them to give him all they've got and in return? Stratta says, "They give me 100% and I promise I'll make them a chef." It's a promise he keeps.

Stratta plays down his awards. There are plenty of them including the Mobile Five Diamond and several James Beard honors--he even won the Iron Chef competition. And now? "My goal is to produce great chefs. I've done more than I thought I'd ever do professionally. At one time, I wanted to be the best chef in the country. But as you mature and develop as a chef, you understand there is no such thing as the best chef."

He may be modest, but surely the restaurant is not. Stratta is given vast--and the finest--resources to accommodate the Sin City clientele. "People come here for a sense of adventure--to try something new. So they'll drop 500 bucks on dinner and think nothing of it. There's that, 'Why not? We're in Vegas!' spirit. If we only do 60 covers in one night, we don't think, 'Oh my God, how will we make it?' In a casino/hotel, you just chalk it up to a bad night."

If we want to talk about immense resources, one can't overlook the original Renoir paintings. At the photo shoot, Art Culinaire was instructed 'not to get too close to them,' and was closely watched by security. 'Come on, Alex, what's it like cooking with a backdrop of Renoirs? Intimidating?'

"They're amazing. 'The Garden of Essai' went on auction at Sotheby's and when they took it away I never realized how much I missed it until it was gone. I screamed, 'Where's my painting!'"

Stratta likes Las Vegas. In fact, he tells us, he and his wife are going to Nobu tonight--it's at The Hard Rock Cafe.

"I can't wait!" Who would have thought Japanese is his favorite? His style is far from Japanese. He calls it, "an intelligent combination of French and Italian--marrying ingredients like gnocchi with foie gras." "Japanese food is all about fresh and light. Compared to a nice hamachi with yuzu, cilantro and jalapeno ... that's heavy stuff! I incorporate hints of the techniques, but always in the style and context of what I do."

Stratta is rare by chef standards. He doesn't define himself by his profession. Unlike many chefs, he doesn't think about food all the time. "That's too consuming," he says. "You have to have a balance. I play guitar. I have a family. I enjoy other things. Food and cooking is only one part of me. It's my passion and what I know best. It's what I do for a living. If someone asks what I am? I'm not going to say, I'm a chef!"

RELATED ARTICLE: Halibut with Caramelized Butternut Squash and Porcini Foam (Serves 6)

paul SALE

directions

For the porcini foam: In a medium saute pan, heat oil. Add shallots and mushrooms, sauteing until mushrooms release liquid. Add stock and reduce by half. Add heavy cream and reduce by three-quarters. Transfer to a blender and puree until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Strain through a fine mesh sieve and pour into a whipped cream dispenser.

For the butternut squash: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Using a 1-inch melon ball cutter, scoop butternut squash into balls and place on a sheet pan with mushrooms and roast for 10 minutes. Remove from oven and set aside, keeping warm.

For the halibut: Season halibut with salt and pepper. Divide halibut fillets, olive oil and thyme between six vacuum-packed bags. Bring a medium saucepan of water to 135 degrees. Add halibut and cook for 10 minutes. Set in an ice bath until chilled and refrigerate until needed. Reheat in a saucepan of simmering water for 10 minutes. Remove from water and cut open.