Symmetry by way of chemistry

Art Culinaire, Spring, 2004 by Carol M. Newman

"Would you like soup or salad with that?"

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IMAGINE BEING ASKED THIS MID-AMERICA QUESTION IN JAPAN? Choose either or and odds are miso will be in the mix. Perhaps if not in the form of dressing, then served in a diminutive cup--of miso soup. It's nourishing. Calming. Humbling. Sure, we may be complacently familiar with this, the quintessential miso dish, but we might not be as educated with the "what's" and "why's" of the seemingly simple paste that goes into much more than soups, stews or glazes. For centuries, Asian cultures--most notably the Japanese, via the Korean Peninsula and China--have embraced miso as a steady source of symmetry. And no wonder, this ancient amalgam is enriched with vitamins and minerals. In fact, miso is a great source of complex carbohydrates, protein, essential oils and minerals. Sounds like the text found on the front of the morning cereal box, doesn't it? Well, maybe R & D at General Mills or Post ought to take the hint. Don't be surprised if you see Miso Frosted Flakes showing up in the next century.

Fermented soy paste: Alone, the seduction properties of this are dreary. But, according to Japanese mythology, miso is "a gift to mankind from the Gods to assure lasting health, longevity and happiness."

Traditional miso is made by fermenting the natural enzyme, koji (a yeast) with cooked, crushed soybeans (or in many cases, rice, barley or wheat), salt and water. It's then transferred to (ideally) six-ton cedar vats where the miso ages and the bacteria grows for a two or three year period. Today, most miso is fermented in stainless steel vessels for a shorter amount of time. But not all miso. The oldest and most respected family for, what is considered miso "artistry," is Hatcho of Okazaki, Japan. Their centuries-old schemas (like aging their miso in 200-year old cedar vats) shun the more modern, hasty, temperature-controlled methods (thought of as one-dimensional). The Hatcho company prefers to work with the rugged elements, like natural weather conditions that determine the temperature of the fermentation room. With the addition of some simple equipment, they consider their product to be hand-crafted--much like that of a boutique winery. If you're thinking the process of miso-making peculiarly parallels wine-making, you're getting it. But the process is only part of it. The appreciation and prestige rivals.

Shoguns and emperors, as well as the people of Japan, have long revered Hatcho miso. Unlike other misos, it is made solely from whole soybeans and a minimum amount of water, giving it a higher protein content. At the Hatcho company, the miso ferments and the live cultures grow under the pressure of three-ton river rocks, said to be so artfully arranged there's no chance of collapse, earthquakes and all. The very best miso comes from the center of the cask and customarily was presented to the emperor of Japan. Among royalty, miso was sometimes referred to as "hiurashi" translating to "a clear-toned summer cicada" (an insect) whose song is said to penetrate even the hardest stone. Likewise, the rich fragrance and fine flavor of miso were known to penetrate and season other foods. It still does today (and not just among royalty).

a salty disposition

Sea salt acts as a natural preservative, slowing down the fermentation process and providing time for the yeast and bacteria to do their work. For this reason, miso is about eight to fourteen percent salt, but most of miso's intensity comes from the fermentation, not the salt--a misconception to most. A tablespoon of miso contains 680 milligrams of sodium compared to a tablespoon of table salt weighing in at a hefty 6,589 milligrams of sodium.

The color of miso determines how long the product's been aged, as well as its salt content. The ivory and pale yellow tones (like an early morning moonrise) are indicative of a miso that has only been aged a few months. Generally, these misos have a higher percentage of rice or other grains and are considered sweet because of their mild flavor. These are the ones used in miso soup.

The warmer the color--the reds or browns (shades of an Indian summer to midnight black) suggest a miso that is more robust and earthy, with complex flavors that are nothing short of sharp and slightly tart to the tongue.

A few miso names to remember: Highly-prized hatcho is made strictly from soybeans and salt. Mugi does a body good (made with soybeans and barley). Try Genmai (soybeans and brown rice) or Kome (a combo of soybeans and white rice). And don't negate Natto (soybeans and ginger). Keep in mind, these are just a few varieties.

a saline solution

After studying the use of miso as a preventive medicine, Dr. Sinchiro Akizuki of Nagasaki, Japan, demonstrated that miso plays a part in protecting against the deadly effects of radiation. In 1972, this was confirmed when it was discovered that miso contains something called dipicolonic acid, which attaches to heavy metals, freeing them from the body. However, the most convincing evidence demonstrating the protection miso offers to those exposed to radiation was published in Japan in 1989. Professor Akihiro Ito, at Hiroshima University's Atomic Radioactivity Medical Lab, reports of European countries importing truckloads of miso after the accident at the Chernobyl nuclear power plant. It has also been reported by Japan's National Cancer Center that those in Japan who ate miso daily, showed lower rates of cancer (including stomach, breast and liver) as well as heart disease. Miso is known to aid in digestion and strengthen the blood. Without suggesting miso is solely responsible, perhaps it does have something to do with the longevity of the Japanese?