Feels like the first time

Art Culinaire, Winter, 2004 by Carol M. Newman

For the porcini puree: In a saucepan, heat grapeseed oil and saute onions until translucent. Add porcini scraps, season with salt and pepper to taste and lightly caramelize; deglaze with mushroom stock. Bring to boil and reduce to a simmer; cooking for 30 minutes. Transfer to a blender and puree until smooth. Add balsamic vinegar, extra virgin olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a pot. Set aside, keeping warm.

For the porcini tempura: Preheat deep-fryer to 350 degrees. In a bowl, combine flour and cornstarch; season with salt and pepper to taste and whisk in soda water until smooth. Using a skewer, dip porcini mushrooms into batter, allowing excess to drip off. Deep-fry porcinis, holding just under surface of the oil until lightly brown. Drain on paper towels, remove skewers and season with salt and pepper to taste.

To serve: Spoon porcini puree onto plate; layer roasted porcinis, red beets, asparagus, torpedo onions and Chioggia beets. Top with yellow squash and porcini tempura; garnish with fennel fronds. Dot plate with pesto and drizzle with broken vinaigrette.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the broken vinaigrette:

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the pesto:

1 bunch basil, stemmed
1/4 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

For the vegetables:

2 quarts water
Juice of 4 oranges, rinds reserved
1 large red beet
2 small Chioggia beets, peeled and thinly sliced
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons Zinfandel vinegar*
1 yellow squash
2 tablespoons finely chopped fennel fronds
1 teaspoon sherry vinegar
12 torpedo onions, halved lengthwise and rinsed
1 quart vegetable stock
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 pound porcini mushrooms, cleaned, halved and scraps reserved
1 pint mushroom stock
1 sprig sage
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
24 jumbo asparagus tips, blanched
2 teaspoons Champagne vinegar
Salt and pepper to taste

For the porcini puree:

1 tablespoon grapeseed oil
1 yellow onion, peeled and sliced
1 cup reserved porcini scraps, rinsed and drained
1 pint mushroom stock
Balsamic vinegar to taste
Extra virgin olive oil to taste
Salt and pepper to taste

For the porcini tempura:

1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 cup cornstarch
1/3 cup soda water
4 large porcini mushrooms, cleaned and halved
Salt and pepper to taste

For the garnish:

Fennel fronds

* Available through Sparrow Lane Farm at (707) 965-9130.

RELATED ARTICLE: Sauteed Sweetbreads with English Pea Tortellini (Serves 6)

BRADLEY OGDEN

Chardonnay

Kongsgaard

Nopa Valley, CA 2000

directions

For the sweetbreads: Soak sweetbreads in milk in refrigerator for eight hours; blanch and remove outer membrane.

For the English pea tortellini: In a medium bowl, mix together flours, salt, eggs and half of the oil until just combined. (Add water by the tablespoon if mixture is too dry.) Transfer dough to a lightly-floured work surface and knead until smooth, about 10 minutes. Cover dough with plastic wrap and set aside to rest for a minimum of two hours. In a saute pan, heat remaining oil and add onions and garlic; saute until translucent. Transfer to a bowl and add peas, ricotta, parmesan, lemon zest and mint; season with salt and pepper to taste and mix well. Set aside in refrigerator. Divide dough into four pieces and roll each through a pasta machine, starting on the thickest setting and finishing on the second to thinnest setting. Cut into 2 X 2-inch squares. Brush edges of pasta squares with water and place one teaspoon of pea filling in center; fold to form a triangle, pressing edges to seal. Gently fold two corners under filling and press together; fold top point back over filling. Set aside on a heavily-floured sheet pan.