What's the scoop?

Art Culinaire, Spring, 2005

RELATED ARTICLE: Thai Jewels and Fruits on Crushed Coconut Ice (Serves 8)

PICHET ONG

Moscoto del Solo

Bonny Doon

Sonta Cruz, CA 2002

directions

For the palm sugar syrup: In a pot, combine all ingredients and heat until sugar is melted. Set aside to chill.

For the Thai jewels: Soak water chestnuts in cold water. Drain and cut into small dice. Divide water chestnuts evenly among two bowls. Add grenadine to one bowl and pandanus concentrate to the other. Toss to coat well and let both marinate for at least 10 minutes. Drain the grenadine chestnuts, reserving the marinade, and toss with half the tapioca flour. Shake off excess flour in a mesh bowl and cook water chestnuts in salted boiling water, stirring constantly. The jewels will float when cooked. Drain in a colander and set in an ice water bath until chilled. Return red jewels to grenadine marinade. Repeat procedure with Pandanus marinated chestnuts. Once cooled, add about four tablespoons palm sugar syrup to each batch, just enough to prevent them from sticking before use.

For the coconut soup base: In a pot, combine ingredients and bring to a simmer. Set aside to cool and refrigerate until ready to use.

For the crushed coconut ice: Unmold frozen coconut water into a heavy-duty plastic bag. Crush by hand with a heavy wooden stick until the ice is finely crushed. Remove any coconut meat and julienne.

To serve: Toss together fruit and drained jewels. For each serving, spoon about 1/2 cup crushed coconut ice into a chilled glass bowl. Top ice with 1/2 cup of jewels, fruit mixture and julienned coconut. Add enough coconut soup base to cover, about 1/2 cup, and serve with a spoon.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

ingredients

For the palm sugar syrup:

1 cup water
5 ounces palm sugar
Pinch of salt

For the Thai jewels:

8 ounces water chestnuts, peeled
3/4 ounce Koepoe-Koepoe pandanus concentrate*
3 ounces grenadine
5 ounces Erawan tapioca flour

For the coconut soup base:

3 ounces granulated sugar
2 cups plus 6 1/4 ounces coconut milk
1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
1/2 teaspoon salt

For the crushed coconut ice:

24 ounces frozen coconut juice

For the fruit:

8 ounces palm seeds, drained, rinsed and quartered**
8 ounces jackfruit, drained, rinsed and julienned***
7 ounces red papaya, small dice

*Pandan leaves are also called screwpine leaves. Available in Asian markets.

**Palm seed, also called sugar palm, toddy palm, nipa palm or atap, is the seed or fruit of tropical palms that are abundant along coastal shores and near rivers and swamps. Available in Asian markets.

***A relative of the fig with a bland, sweet flavor. Available through Kalustyans at (212) 685-3451 or www.kalustyans.com.

RELATED ARTICLE: Mango Kulfi with Vermicelli Salad and Pistachio Dressing (Serves 8)

PICHET ONG

Freiso Frizzante

Bonny Doon

Santa Cruz, California 2003

directions

For the kulfi base: In a medium pot, cook mango, mango juice, vanilla, cardamom, sugar, salt and lemon juice over medium heat, until dry and pasty. Add cream and goat's milk and bring to a simmer. Let simmer for about 25 minutes, stirring frequently, until mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. Remove from heat, strain and pour mixture into eight 4-ounce wax paper cups.