Gilles Verot: charcutier

Art Culinaire, Winter, 2007

As the interest in artisanal foods rises, industrial producers cast about to find ways of replicating the wares. Without a doubt, technology and know-how have come a long way, and many of the products are of decent quality--decent enough to endanger traditional artisans. They're still no substitute for the handcrafted delicacies of someone like Gilles Verot, master charcutier. With this in mind, Verot, in partnership with Daniel Boulud, has brought his charcuterie abroad to foster greater appreciation for the real thing. His traditional specialties are now an important feature at the new Bar Boulud in New York City.

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At Bar Boulud, one can experience charcuterie like none other in the country. Verot's cold selections include traditional items like fine and country pates, Provencal pulled rabbit, beef cheek compote and an award-winning head cheese along with more contemporary creations like Moroccan lamb and Indian-spiced chicken terrines. Hot dishes such as sausage with pistachios and truffles, and crisp pork belly are also on the menu, while various vegetable sides make a complete meal possible. All are based on the finest ingredients available, fashioned with generations of experience. Never before enjoyed on U.S. shores, Verot's charcuterie is an education for the uninitiated and aficionado alike. AC caught up with Verot at one of his Parisian ateliers to find out how he came to be one of the foremost charcutiers in the world.

AC: Tell us about history of your family's business.

GV: My maternal grandfather was a charcutier. My grandparents on my father's side owned a large charcuterie which also functioned as an epicerie (grocery shop) and a wine cellar located in Saint-Etienne. My parents took on the charcuterie and made it the most famous in town. Incidentally, my wife Catherine's parents were also charcutiers in Paris and owned one of the most renowned boutiques in Paris.

AC: How did you learn the craft?

GV: Even since I was a little boy, I used to help my parents during vacations. I have always loved the charcuterie's atmosphere, a very harsh but also a very family-oriented atmosphere. I have always known that I would be in this business. What I did not know was that I would not end up in Saint-Etienne. I started in Lyon, and then opened my own shop in Paris and today, here I am in New York City.

AC: How did you get started on your own?

GV: We started in a very small store with only four employees. We worked day and night and the clientele grew rapidly. As a result, newspapers started talking about us and helped us gain more notoriety and an even bigger clientele coming from further and further away.

AC: How much has your business grown?

GV: Within ten years, we have been able to open a second shop and we now have a total of thirty employees.

AC: How has your career been different from your parents'?

GV: Catherine's parents and my parents followed the charcuterie trends of the last thirty years in France, which was to move towards catering and meal preparation. Instead, we are moving counter to that trend today, since we are first and foremost charcutiers and this is essentially what you will find in our stores.

AC: How are you able to express your creativity in such a traditional craft?

GV: Our specialties change according to the time of year. In the fall and winter, we work mostly on game, foie gras, and all sorts of tourtes (pies) and boudins (pork sausages). During warmer weather, we offer several types of stewed meats, light rillettes, and other meat confits. At that time, we work mostly with fowl, beef, lamb, and rabbit. I am always trying to create new recipes, new harmonies, without really abandoning the true specialties of charcuterie.

AC: In your experience, how have customers' expectations of charcuterie changed, if at all?

GV: Customers come to our stores for a pleasurable experience while buying and of course while they will be dining. They also buy with confidence because they know that for me, the most important thing is to buy great quality products every day. They also frequently request new items.

AC: Do you see any emerging trends for charcuterie?

GV: Yes, today, charcutiers are dealing with new cooking methods, new products, and the use of many other types of meats besides the traditional pork.

AC: Do you have plans for any other projects?

GV: Possibly a new store in Paris on the Left Bank and hopefully more Bars Boulud in the future!