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The bison, more commonly known as buffalo in the U.S., has had its impact on American history and culture, but has yet to be a presence on the American table. With a quarter of the fat of beef, it makes for an intriguing alternative. The question is: with so little fat, how best to cook it?

A FAMILY AFFAIR he best way to first approach the beast is to call it by its proper name. "American buffalo" is a misnomer; the true buffaloes of the world are the Asian water buffalo and the African Cape buffalo. The shaggy-headed, humpbacked creature of the New World is, taxonomically, Bison bison. It and its endangered European cousin the wisent (Bison bonasus) are only related to buffaloes at the family level, which is bovine.

The bison is not a North American native. At least 25,000 years ago, its ancestors migrated across the Bering Strait land bridge to become one of the only bovine species on the continent. Today, two varieties endure, the plains bison and the wood bison, although the former is far more numerous.

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That number is of course much lower than it was when the bison dominated the landscape. By the 19th century, there were at least 35 million-some estimates go as high as 100 million-bison living in massive herds from Alaska to northern Mexico, and almost coast-to-coast in between. A single herd of 4 million animals covering an area of 100 square miles was not unheard of. The well-marked traces of their migrations were a boon to westward expansion, with many paths eventually becoming convenient foundations for railroads and major highways.

By the mid-1800s, the rise of commercial hunting for bison hides drastically reduced the herds. Even though it was clear by the 1870s that bison numbers were low, the U.S. government chose to allow the slaughter to continue unabated, as a military tactic. Without the bison, the government reasoned, the Plains Indians might be starved into ceasing hostilities. By 1884, fewer than 600 wild bison remained.

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It was only due to the efforts of a few dedicated conservationists that the bison survived at all. During one of the last bison hunts in South Dakota, five calves were captured and brought to the ranch of one Pete Dupree, who grew them into a small herd of about fifty. After Dupree's death in 1899, Scottish-born South Dakotan James "Scotty" Philip purchased the herd with the intention of saving the species. By the early 1900s, the herd stood more than 1,000 strong, the largest in the world. Bison from this herd eventually stocked state parks and wildlife refuges throughout the country.

Today, between privately and publicly held herds, the bison population stands at about a half-million. Few of the herds, however, are purebred-the others are mixed to some degree with cattle. And of those purebred few, there is only one that has always roamed free-the herd living in Yellowstone National Park.

DON'T FENCE ME IN

The bison is still wild at heart. Captive herds are only captive by consent, the prevailing wisdom being that one can drive a bison anywhere it wants to go, and keep it anywhere it wants to stay. Males can weigh close to a ton and stand six feet high at the shoulder. In spite of its ungainly appearance, it is capable of running 35 miles an hour and jumping most of the fences it can't smash through. The bison may appear docile, but, as Yellowstone records show, it isn't above the occasional goring or trampling of a tourist.

For a long time, the challenges in keeping bison, as well as an indifferent market, kept ranchers from embracing the animal. But a recent surge in the market for bison meat has more and more ranchers weighing the option. In 2005, sales increased 17%, followed by a 21% rise in 2006. During the first half of 2007, they were up yet another 17% with no slowing in sight. At present, bison are raised in all fifty states, on more than 4,000 private ranches.

Bison production is also a sustainable venture that appeals to the conservation-minded rancher and consumer alike. As a native species, bison are adapted to grazing native grasses, and do not require growth hormones and antibiotics. Consumer expectations, however, do lead the controversial practice, by some ranchers, of finishing the bison on grain for the last four months of its life. This is done to ensure that any visible fat is white instead of a more unusual--and potentially off-putting-grass-fed yellow.

Some ranchers opt to raise beefalo, a crossbreed that is 3/8 bison, 5/8 domestic cattle. This genetic combo struck the right balance, creating a fertile offspring with the best traits out of both: the beefalo has the lean, tender meat of the bison and the docility and rapid growth rate of cattle. At present, beefalo is not as widely available as bison, but the pros of raising beefalo may eventually make them more popular.

LOW AND SLOW

The major selling point of bison meat is its lean, healthy profile. Ounce for ounce, it has about one quarter the fat of beef and contains more protein and iron. It also has fewer calories than skinless chicken breast. While these qualities appeal to those with their health and waistlines in mind, they can make a chef hesitate. Customers won't really care that bison is more difficult to cook; they'll expect it to be as tender and juicy as the beef they're forgoing.

Food & Beverage Industry

The bison, more commonly known as buffalo in the U.S., has had its impact on American history and culture, but has yet to be a presence on the American table. With a quarter of the fat of beef, it makes for an intriguing alternative. The question is: with so little fat, how best to cook it?

Art Culinaire, Winter, 2007

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