Wisconsin's Westby, 'Little Creamery That Could,' marks 100th anniversary

Rural Cooperatives, Sept-Oct, 2003 by Patrick Duffey

Many parents have read the "Little Engine That Could" story to their children, but this might be called a talc of the "Little Creamery That Could." Today's small community business in the southwestern Wisconsin village of Westby, Wis., was started in 1903. Few thought surviving grandchildren five generations later would still live to see it and enjoy its dairy products, which would eventually be differentiated as "farmer-certified rBGH-free."

In many ways, little Westby Cooperative Creamery strives amidst some of the nation's major dairy, cooperatives operating in Wisconsin's Dairyland. This year, Westby is celebrating its 100th anniversary. The small community amidst scenic rolling hills unscathed by glacial flows of 10,000 years ago is located just west of the state's capital at Madison. On Oct. 31, 1903, 300 Vernon County dairy farmers paid $10 each for a capital stock certificate and filed articles of incorporation to form the cooperative. The typical farmer then had about 10 cows. Small farms dotted the landscape. Local farmers brought cream by horse-drawn wagons to the factory, which was built for $1,225 on a parcel of land that cost $400.

In 1927, the Main Street factory was built and still stands, albeit with subsequent remodeling and additions. That first year, the cream from Vernon County dairy farms was made into 67,524 pounds of butter.

Demise of milk cans

Although the first generation is gone, several second- and third-generation patrons still recall the early days. Carla Olson, 83, of Westby is a second-generation patron. "Cows were milked by hand and milk was separated from cream with a hand-cranked separator," she says.

Her father-in-law, Arne Olson, traveled with his brother from Norway in 1893 by steamship, settled in the Westby area and helped build the original creamery building. In those days, many made their own cheese and butter at the farm, she recalled.

In time, Model T cars and trucks replaced the wagons and later came even larger trucks that hauled the metal cans, which contained 100 pounds of milk. The old standby cans gave way to bulk tanks at the farms by 1969.

Today, Vernon County has only 600 surviving dairy farmers, and the milk feeding the cooperative comes from 120 members in a half dozen surrounding counties. Westby operates with a staff of 37.

As a farmer-owned cooperative, the Westby Cooperative Creamery takes pride in the traditions started a century ago. Its hard cheeses are handcrafted in open vats by qualified cheesemakers, not machines. And its pure and natural butter recipe hasn't changed in 100 years.

Its main products are cottage cheese, sour cream, butter and a variety of cheeses made from about a third of the milk the cooperative receives. The balance is sold to other dairy processors.

Westby label is born

When Tom Gronemus took over as manager in 1992, Westby had lost a major market. For many years it made and sold bulk cottage cheese to Dean Foods. But that relationship ended in 1992.

The creamery was making 500-pound barrel cheese for Borden and 68-pound packs of butter for the federal government. "We didn't even have a label or logo," he recalls. His 30 years with the cooperative makes him personally familiar with the most recent third of its history.

When Gronemus moved into management, he and the board jumped into marketing and developed the "Westby" label. They recruited a sales force, created and tried new products and now have developed a distribution system to deliver fresh products direct to the stores.

Fresh cheese curds have become a specialty. "During the summer, we sell 30,000 to 40,000 pounds of them and our local dairy store at the creamery is a popular stop for local customers and travelers," Gronemus says. "We emphasize high-quality dairy products made with milk from small dairy farms.

"All of our milk is farmer-certified rBGH-free, which also appeals to many people. Our dairy farmers believe hormones used to enhance milk production stress their cows and thereby decrease the quality and wholesomeness of the milk."

Official 'Packers' Cheese'

Steve Holte, who milks 50 cows near Westby, heads the board of seven directors as it embarks on its journey into the cooperative's second century. The newest feather in the cooperative's cap is the contract it signed last summer to provide the Official Cheese of the Green Bay Packers, home of the "Cheeseheads."

Manager Gronemus says the cooperative is "thrilled about the new partnership. We started off with a new product line with the 'Official Cheese Curds of the Green Bay Packers' and expanded the line during the season."

When ABC's Monday Night Football traveled to Lambeau Field last November, Westby capitalized on the opportunity, commissioning cheese carvings of ABC's John Madden and Al Michaels.

Fans got a taste of the new products when the curds reached most Wisconsin grocery stores last fall. Westby's products can also be ordered online at www.westbycreamery.com.

The creamery launched the first of its many centennial celebrations this spring with the "World's Largest Office Party," sponsored by a LaCrosse area radio station. It attracted nearly 5,000 party goers who witnessed the creamery's cheese curd toss and sampled products.