Appalachian farms: biodiversity at Hickory Nut Gap Farm

New Life Journal, August-Sept, 2003 by Charlie Jackson

Biodiversity is what farming is all about for Jamie and Amy Ager. Located in the Fairview community of Buncombe County, they are the fourth generation to farm the 600 acres of Hickory. Nut Gap Farm. On the sixty acres of pasture on the farm, they strive to mimic nature in a "perennial polyculture" that includes open fields and woodlands, grass-fed cattle, pastured turkeys and chickens, lambs and pigs, and even pastured egg production. "We maintain open land the way that nature has always done it," says Jamie, "by grazing herbivores."

What this means for the consumer is naturally-raised meats from humanely treated animals. Jamie and Amy believe that this type of production is particularly suited to the geographic conditions of the mountains. "Meat makes sense around here," according to Jamie, "This landscape is well-suited to raising animals." A trip to the farm is an eye-opener. No confined animals here. All the animals are raised in open fields with plenty of sunshine and fresh water. Even the chickens and turkeys (and eggs too!) are raised on pasture.

Jamie and Amy sell their meals and eggs, labeled under the business name Spring House Natural Meats, straight from the farm. "People can come out to the farm and see how their meat is raised," says Amy, "We are very customer driven."

This season, they began selling their meats on Saturday mornings at the North Asheville Tailgate Market and Wednesday afternoons at the West Asheville Tailgate Market. They also sell eggs to local restaurants. Jamie and Amy have spent the last few years reclaiming farmland that has been out of production. With farms going out of business and land being gobbled up for development, their model is tonic. Farms in western North Carolina have been disappearing for a century and only through innovative production and the support of the community will farms survive. Amy and Jamie are bringing people back out to the farm and demonstrating that farming can again be an important part of the community.

This September, Amy and Jamie and the rest of the Hickory Nut Gap community will be hosting the third annual Harvest Festival. On September 13, hundreds of folks from all over the region will take the trip out to picturesque Fairview to spend a day on a working farm and enjoy events, fresh locally grown foods, and wonderful music. The day-long celebration will begin with a tour of the Hickory Nut Gap Farms as well as the Old Sherrill Inn, a historic landmark and home to Jamie's parents.

After the tour, festivities will begin on the farm. Demonstrations--from sheep herding and shearing to making apple cider from apples grown on the farm--will allow guests to see what goes on at an Appalachian farm. According to Amy, "We have the capacity for five hundred people, and I hope everyone will come and enjoy a day on the farm." Jamie agrees, adding, "This is a great way for people to learn where food comes from and the This year, the event will add vendors to the mix along with a kids' area for face painting, storytelling, and more. There will also be crafts and lots of music provided by local bands. In the afternoon there will be a big feast with food from the Hickory Nut Gap Farms and other local farms. The day culminates with a square-dance and bluegrass band. "The last two years have been great fun," says Amy. "This year will be the best ever!" For more information on the fatal tour and for tickets, call the farm at 828-628-1027 or visit www.Hickorynutgapgfarm.com. Call early; this will be a popular event.

Find out more about Hickory Nut Gap Farm and other mountain farms (and markets for local farm products) in the ASAP Local Food Guide, online at www.BuyAppalachian.org. The 2003 Local Food Guide is available throughout western North Carolina at tailgate markets, farms, and businesses that support local farms.