Nourish your skin from the outside in: what's the best way to keep wrinkles at bay? Vitamins A, B, C, E, and K

Natural Health, Nov, 2004 by Karyn Repinski

IF YOU'RE INTENT ON KEEPING YOUR SKIN looking young for as long as possible (and who isn't?), it's time to learn the ABCs--and Es and Ks--of vitamin-based skin care. These key nutrients help prevent and reverse many of the signs of aging caused by sun exposure, pollution, and dryness.

Here's the rub: They are effective only when applied directly to your skin's surface.

Why not take them by mouth? It turns out that no matter how balanced your diet, there's no guarantee the anti-aging benefits of vitamins will actually reach your skin--they may be preoccupied elsewhere in the body. "The needs of our internal organs, especially those of the cardiovascular system, most likely trump the skin's," explains Mary Lupo, M.D., a clinical professor of dermatology at Tulane University in New Orleans. Applied topically, however, properly formulated and stabilized vitamins can penetrate the top layer of skin so their benefits can be directed toward the complexion.

Most of these vitamins act as antioxidants, protecting the skin from free radicals, which are unstable molecules that wreak havoc on healthy cells and are the source of much of the damage that leads to skin aging and cancer. But that's only the start. From improving skin texture and tone to reducing sunspots and under-eye circles, "there is scientific data that shows specific anti-aging benefits of each of the topically applied vitamins," says Lupo, who published a review of topical vitamins in Clinics in Dermatology.

With all the research out there, it can be difficult to understand the effects of each vitamin and to find the best skin-care products containing them. We sorted through the studies and spoke with top experts in the field of anti-aging skin care to compile this guide to the five most complexion-nurturing vitamins.

vitamin a

WHAT IT DOES: Improves the look and feel of sun-damaged and aging skin.

HOW IT WORKS: The production of collagen, the protein fiber that plumps skin from the inside out, tends to slow as we age. The sun's ultraviolet (UV) rays can damage and degrade collagen as well.

Retinoids are synthetic derivatives of vitamin A, available by prescription, that can help improve skin's appearance by driving the regeneration (and stopping the breakdown) of collagen. "Retinoids are the most effective topical anti-aging ingredients out there," explains Patricia Farris, M.D., a clinical assistant professor of dermatology at Tulane University School of Medicine. Retinoids also can lighten freckles and dark spots associated with aging and sun damage.

Retinoids' milder cousin retinol is pure vitamin A, available in over-the-counter formulations. Though far less research has been done on retinols, one unpublished industry-sponsored study using a 0.15 percent retinol formula for three months showed So percent improvement in surface texture, 30 percent improvement in lines and wrinkles, and 3S percent reduction in brown spots. The downside: Such a high concentration of retinol is usually found only in products sold exclusively in dermatologists' offices.

WHAT TO EXPECT: Prescription retinoids have been found to effectively de-age skin within four to eight weeks. Initially, all forms of vitamin A can be very irritating, causing redness, scaling, and flaking that can last for two weeks or longer. Because retinoids are stronger than retinols, they're more likely to cause irritation. To avoid these side effects, dermatologists often advise that retinoids be used sparingly, with a good moisturizer, every other night or even every third night. (Because retinoids are degraded by sunlight, they should always be used at night.)

For those who can't tolerate the irritation, or who prefer to use an OTC form of vitamin A, retinol--the kinder, gentler member of the "A" team--may be the answer.

PRODUCTS TO TRY: The most frequently used topical retinoids are tretinoin (brand names Retin-A and Renova), tazarotene (Tazorac), and adapalene (Differin); they require a prescription, so you'll need to see your dermatologist to get them. If you're looking for retinol, try one of these over-the-counter products: Dr. Brandt "A" Cream ($65; sephora.com), a night moisturizer with retinol as well as hydrating shea butter and soothing natural extracts of orange and lavender; RoC Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle Night Cream ($20; at drugstores), which in clinical testing was found to reduce the appearance of wrinkles after 12 weeks of nightly use; and Neutrogena Advanced Solutions Nightly Renewal Cream ($23.99; at drugstores), which was clinically tested and found to improve the look of under-eye wrinkles after four weeks of use and to reduce the appearance of lines on the forehead after one week.

insider tip:

Though they've never been scientifically shown to make skin more sun-sensitive, retinoids should always be used in conjunction with a broad-spectrum sunscreen that contains an SPF of at least 30.

vitamin b

WHAT IT DOES: Helps reduce dryness and irritation, fine lines, hyperpigmentation, and sallowness.