Lighten up: a dark spot on your face doesn't have to remain a shadow on your complexion. Over-the-counter and prescription creams and lotions can lighten skin safely - Beauty Honored—Potions & Prescriptions

Natural Health, March, 2004

You've probably noticed them before: patches of skin--generally on the face, but sometimes on the hands, arms and legs--that look darker than adjacent areas. This happens when skin cells called melanocytes produce more pigment than usual, explains Jean L. Bolognia, M.D., professor of dermatology at Yale University in New Haven, Conn. Hyperpigmentation can be triggered by external factors (unprotected sun exposure), inflammation (acne, eczema, psoriasis) or internal factors (hormonal fluctuations).

There is help. Hydroquinone, a lightening agent, is one popular remedy. You can buy topical over-the-counter creams that contain 2 percent hydroquinone. They typically work more slowly than higher-strength prescription creams, but are less irritating. The prescription options, such as Claripel or Melanex, contain about 4 percent hydroquinone, and dermatologists can formulate their own creams to a maximum of about 10 percent.

Keep in mind that hydroquinone creams often perform best when used in combination with other treatments that accelerate skin-cell turnover, such as retinoids, which are vitamin A derivatives; fruit acids like glycolic acid; and salicylic acid. These products help to exfoliate the outer, pigmented layer of dead-skin cells, so fresh, unpigmented skin can shine through.

Additionally, some new products contain mild natural lighteners--such as vitamin C, soy, arbutin and mulberry root--that may help make skin color look more uniform. Purified licorice extract also lightens dark spots. Botanical solutions may be useful for people with mild hyperpigmentation or who are sensitive to hydroquinone.

Finally, it's important to note that, while hydroquinone can permanently remove most dark spots, some will reappear if sun exposure is not avoided.

SPOT CHECK

Get more even-toned skin with Clinical Solutions by Therapy Systems Advanced Skin Lightener with 2 percent hydroquinone ($55; therapysystemsinc.com); Shiseido Whitess Intensive Skin Brightener with arbutin ($120; shiseido.com); Estee Lauder WhiteLight EX Extra Brightening Treatment Lotion with licorice and vitamin C ($30; gloss.com); and Aveda Brightening Essence with mulberry root ($45; aveda.com).

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