Slow & easy vegetarian: too busy to eat right? A streamlined update of a classic kitchen helper takes the work out of making nutritious meals—and greets you at the door with tantalizing aromas

Natural Health, March, 2004 by Robin Robertson

DURING THE EARLY 1970s, the slow cooker graced many a kitchen counter, taking on the job of preparing dinner while we were at work. These compact appliances (the best-known model being the Rival Crock-Pot) offered a convenient and easy way to prepare recipes that usually required more time than we had. Eventually, however, many of us banished our slow cookers to the attic. I'm not sure why--maybe they just weren't cool anymore.

I admit that I didn't give my old harvest gold Crock-Pot much thought until I noticed a resurgent interest in the new breed of improved slow cookers. But I wasn't convinced I needed yet another small appliance and, besides, I associated slow cookers with tough cuts of meat. As a vegetarian, they were something I could live without.

Then one day an especially busy friend told me about all the fabulous vegetarian dishes she was making in her new slow cooker. She went on about the intoxicating fragrances that welcomed her home each night: savory soups, stews and bean dishes that she otherwise wouldn't have the time to make--not even with a pressure cooker. I began to see the slow cooker in a new light. The next day, I bought myself a sleek black-and-stainless-steel model and soon discovered that this was more than just a pretty face. The thing could cook and, it seemed, think a little, too. For example, it automatically turns itself to "warm" after it's done cooking for the preset time.

From the first pot of soup I made, I was hooked, and for more than mere convenience. I was compelled by something basic and primal. For me, this little appliance hearkens back to the old iron pot on the hearth of our ancestors. Without fall, whenever I prepare a slow-cooked meal, a warm "back to my roots" feeling comes over me. This should come as no surprise: For centuries, long-cooked, slow-simmered foods have been the hallmark of many cuisines around the world, including humble soups and stews such as the French cassoulet and tian and the Moroccan tagine.

What I like best about slow-cooker vegetarian recipes is the hours-long cooking process that enriches the flavor of the dish in a way that other methods can't match. The deep, complex flavors of stews and chilis prepared on the stovetop, for example, pale in comparison to slow-cooked versions.

Slow cookers are especially well-matched to vegetarian meals because they cook many bean, grain and vegetable dishes so expertly. While some people may prefer using a pressure cooker for beans and other long-cooking recipes, it's hard to beat the convenience of a pot that you can leave unattended.

Life hasn't slowed any since the '70s, so a simple device that cooks while you're doing something else--and delivers delicious, sustaining food--definitely deserves a second chance, whether you opt to pick up a fancy new model or reclaim your old Crock-Pot from the attic.

8 secrets of slow-cooking success

Following a few simple rules can make the difference between a so-so meal and a great one.

1. No peeking, Don't lift the lid when cooking--the temperature will drop considerably and you will lose about 20 minutes of cooking time.

2. Fill it correctly. Be sure your slow cooker is at least halfway full, but avoid filling it more than two-thirds full. Overfilling can cause the dish to spill over while simmering.

3. Know how to add. If you're using a recipe designed for a 3 1/2-to 4-quart slow cooker, but want to prepare the dish in a 5 1/2-to 6-quart model, increase your amounts by one-half. (That said, many recipes contain enough volume that you won't need to make any adjustments.)

4. Browning matters. Some recipes call for partially cooking or browning a few ingredients before placing them in the slow cooker. This extra step can make a world of difference to the taste, texture and appearance of the dish.

5. Timing is everything. If a recipe tells you to add a quick-cooking or delicate ingredient at the end of cooking, do so. This attention to detail will pay off when you taste the finished product.

6. Less (liquid) is more. Because the lid remains on throughout most slow-cooked recipes, liquid doesn't evaporate as it does when cooking on the stove or in the oven. When converting a favorite recipe to a slow cooker, you may need to use less liquid. To get rid of excess liquid, remove the lid and cook on high for an additional 30 minutes.

7. Presoak. Presoaking dried beans improves their digestibility and will turn your slow-cooked beans tender in 8 hours instead of 18. Also, don't add salt, tomatoes or other acidic ingredients until the beans have softened (otherwise they'll remain tough), and be sure to drain cooked beans and discard the cooking liquid before adding them to a recipe (also recommended for digestibility).

8. Precook, There are two ways to use pasta or rice in slow-cooked recipes: Add uncooked pasta or rice during the final hour of cooking time, or cook the rice or pasta separately and put it in the dish just before serving. I prefer the latter because pasta and rice cooked directly in the slow cooker often turn out gummy and starchy. Converted rice works best when added raw. If you prefer brown rice, it's best to cook it separately.