Know your sunscreen: physical blocks and chemical blocks protect your skin in different ways. Learn what works for you

Natural Health, June, 2008 by Olessa Pindak

WHEN THOSE first rays of warm summer sun hit our skin--before the muggy humidity kicks in--it's hard to resist soaking it up for hours. But basking can quickly become baking, and the next thing you're dealing with is sunburn, wrinkles, or an increased risk of several skin cancers.

We turned to natural skincare experts for advice on safeguarding your skin all summer long.

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Cover your skin The best way to guard your skin is to shield it from the sun.

* Wear wide-brimmed hats, sunglasses, and sun-protective clothing. When you swim, wear a wetsuit, advises Alan Dattner, M.D., a holistic dermatologist in New York. And, if possible, stay out of the midday sun.

* Eat more brightly colored fruits and vegetables and drink green tea. High in antioxidants, they can help your skin repair sun damage and fight potentially cancer-causing free radicals, says Dattner.

* Apply an effective sunscreen. Whenever your skin is exposed, slather on a lotion high in SPF.

Read labels

Not all sunscreens are alike. It helps to understand the ingredients and know which rays they'll protect you from.

PHYSICAL BLOCKERS Minerals like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are used in physical blocks, which provide the most comprehensive coverage: They sit on top of your skin and reflect the rays of the sun, shielding what's underneath, explains Kenneth Beer, M.D., a dermatologist in West Palm Beach, Fla.

CHEMICAL BLOCKERS Ingredients used in chemical blocks soak into your skin (instead of sitting on the surface) and help prevent damage by breaking down harmful ultraviolet rays.

WHAT SPF MEANS Sun Protection Factor indicates how much shelter you'll get from the sun's damaging rays. To find out how long a sunscreen will shade you, multiply its SPF by the amount of time your unprotected skin can spend in the sun without burning (for most people, this is between ten and 20 minutes, depending on skin type). If you burn after ten minutes, an SPF of 15 will shield your skin for 150 minutes.

WHAT UVA RAYS CAUSE

Ultraviolet A (UVA) rays can cause premature aging, such as wrinkles, and may even cause some skin cancers.

WHAT UVB RAYS CAUSE

Ultraviolet B (UVB) rays are more potent, quicker to produce sunburn, and are a major cause of skin cancer. Because UVB rays cause sunburn, SPF always refers only to UVB protection. To defend yourself from both UVA and UVB rays, look for a physical block or a full-spectrum chemical block.

Slather all over

When applying sunscreen, don't forget your ears, neck, and the backs of your legs--places people often overlook. When you put it on your face, start at the outside and move in, suggests Doris Day, M.D., a dermatologist in New York. "Most people miss the edges of their face, so starting there will help make sure every part is covered."

physical blocks for your body

Physical blocks, which use ingredients like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide to protect against both UVA and UVB rays, are effective immediately--no need to wait before going outside.

CHECK OUT JASON SUNBRELLAS MINERAL BASED PHYSICAL SUNBLOCK SPF 30 ($14; jason-natural.com)

ALBA BOTANICA ALOE VANILLA MINERAL SUNSCREEN, SPF 18 ($10; albabotanica.com).

DR. HAUSCHKA SUNSCREEN SPRAY SPF 15 ($24; drhauschka.com).

physical blocks for your face

New formulations of physical blocks contain micro-sized particles of zinc, which are smaller than the particles in traditional formulas and won't leave your skirl looking white and pasty,

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CHECK OUT CLARINS UV PLUS DAY SCREEN SPF 40 ($40; us.clarins.com)

SKIN NUTRITION WITH PHYTOMINS DALLY UV DEFENSE 25 SPF ($15 sinclairandvalentine.com)

COLLECTIVE WELLBEING DAY MOISTURIZER WITH SPF 15 ($19; collectivewellbeing.com)

chemical blocks for your body

Chemical blockers contain ingredients like avobenzone, homosalate, octisalate, and benzophenone, which can break down in the sun. To avoid that, look for ones with stabilizers like Mexoryl (found in all L'Oreal sunscreens, including L'Oreal's Vichy and Ombrelle brands), Helioplex (found in Aveeno and Neutrogena), and AvoTriplex (found in Banana Boat).

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CHECK OUT NEUTROGENA ULTRA SHEER BODY MIST SUNBLOCK SPF 70 ($10; at drugstores)

BEYOND COASTAL ACTIVE DAILY SUNSCREEN SPF 30 ($15;beyondcoastal.com)

BANANA BOAT ULTRA MIST SPORT PERFORMANCE DRI-BLOK SPF 30 ($10; at drugstores)

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NEW WASH-ON SUNSCREENS

New sunscreens this season include some that you wash on like soap or cleanser. Manufacturers claim the products stay on your skin even after you rinse off. "I don't think these offer enough protection to use as your primary sunscreen," says dermatologist Kenneth Beer. "But it can't hurt to make it your first layer."

CHECK OUT ST. IVES ELEMENTS PROTECTIVE CLEANSER ($7; at drugstores) for a chemical sunscreen or BETHESDA SUNSCREEN SOAP ($8; bethesdaskincare.com) for a physical block.

chemical blocks for your face

Always look for chemical blockers that provide complete protection from both UVA and UVB rays, and apply at least a half hour before heading outdoors--it takes that long for the chemicals to Soak into the skin and start working to protect you.