Cheers to the good life

Natural Health, Sept, 2004 by Mary Ellen Strote

Organic viticulture isn't easy, especially with transportation of nursery stock and plant material that may introduce new pests, a constant worry for growers. Yet Sanford remains dedicated to his task. "If you plant the right crops in the right areas, you don't need a lot of chemicals to keep them going. And I just feel it's the right way to be in the world."

But the world of natural winemaking can get confusing. A winery's products might be "organic," "made from organically grown grapes" or "biodynamically grown." Vineyards may be "transitional" (on their way to organic certification) or use "sustainable farming" practices. To limn the label, sample the following explanations:

sustainable:

Eco-friendly growing techniques (reduced water, energy and pesticide use; cultural practices that minimize impact to wildlife) and utilization of natural resources (owls to control rodent populations) contribute to an integrative style of farming that supports environmental, social and economic goals. The Sustainable Agriculture and Research Education Program at UC Davis defines sustainable farming as meeting "the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs." There's no legal certification for sustainable farming.

wineries to try:

Shafer napa

Robert Mondavi Winery napa

Clos du Val napa

Groth napa

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organically grown:

Grapes are planted without the use of synthetic or chemically altered pesticides, herbicides, fungicides or fertilizers. Essentially, "all natural substances are allowed in organic production and all synthetic substances are prohibited," explains the USDA's National Organic Program. After three years of organic farming, growers can be certified by an USDA-accredited agency, such as California Certified Organic Farmers. Of the 479,000 acres of wine grapes grown in California, only 2 percent are (or soon will be) certified organic.

wineries to try:

Sanford santa rita hills

Bonterra mendocino

Frog's Leap napa

Neibaum-Coppola napa

Robert Sinskey napa

De Loach sonoma

organic or organically processed:

Currently, only seven wineries in California can lay claim to the "organic" label, which stipulates that grapes are grown organically, and no sulfites are added during processing. (Even these wines contain up to 10 milligrams of sulfites, a natural byproduct of fermentation. Other manufacturers add sulfites to keep wines from browning and becoming oxidized. Those who are sensitive or asthma-prone should avoid sulfites, which are also found in dried fruits, breads, frozen french fries, molasses and fruit juice.)

wineries to try:

The Organic Wine Works from Hallcrest Vineyards

santa cruz mountains

Coturri sonoma

Badger Mountain washington

biodynamically grown:

Developed in 1924, biodynamic agriculture is considered the granddaddy of organic farming. It treats the farm holistically, as a self-sustaining, living organism connected to soil, climate, weather patterns, animal migration and even planetary movements. Biodynamic vineyards exceed NOP standards for organic farming; they employ additional practices to foster growth and fertility, such as misting vines and soil with homeopathic-like sprays and harvesting according to celestial activity. Biodynamic vineyards are certified by the Demeter Association.