Building better ponds: five easy steps for turning a rubber or concrete pond installation into a work of art—rather than a master disaster - Quarterly Market Report

Pool & Spa News, March 27, 2004 by Janice Rhoshalle Littlejohn

When Eamonn Hughes moved to the Portland area 17 years ago, he spent as much time repairing old ponds as he did building new ones.

"The problem is that homeowners would just go out and throw concrete into the ground, which is not effective long term," says Hughes, president of Hughes Water Gardens in Tualatin, Ore.

With a little know-how, though, ponds can be effectively lined with concrete or rubber--and still stand the test of time. Gunite or steel-reinforced concrete provides suitable structural support for multi-ton boulders, and should be able to withstand soil movement and sun damage. However, it's typically more time-consuming because concrete needs to cure and is more expensive than liners, says Hughes.

Rubber liners, on the other hand, can be laid in a matter of minutes and at nearly half the cost of building a cement structure, according to Hughes. Besides being strong enough to hold rocks and boulders of more than 5 tons without puncturing and tearing, it is especially durable in shifting soil conditions.

As it turns out, the emergence of rubber liners has made it easier and cheaper for almost anyone to install a pond, which has contributed to the pond building boom, according to Bob Dews, president of Extreme Ponds in Asheville, N.C. But before you take the plunge into pond building with rubber or concrete, consider the following guidelines from the pros:

1 Start with the basics.

When considering a backyard pond, take a tip from the real estate profession: It's all about location, location, location. Identify areas around the home or building that might affect the project, and that includes sidewalks, decks, driveways and vegetation. Also note flat and sloped areas, especially if you're looking to install a waterfall, brook or stream. Scope out the closest electrical lines or outlets, as well as any other utility and irrigation lines, springs or drainage areas.

Use a hose or rocks to outline the area where you're thinking of building the pond. Not only will this help you determine its placement, but you can better visualize the pond's shape and size. And it will enhance your ability to determine where streams, waterfalls and plants can be added.

Remember, pond building is much like landscaping, so you should observe the intended location from different angles. "Particularly if you're in the Northern states, where four to six months out of the year you're actually inside looking out at your pond, it's good to have a nice visual from the living room or kitchen window," Hughes says. It's especially nice if the pond has a waterfall system on it, he adds.

Of course, a waterfall will add more to the location equation. "if you have a waterfall, positioning it near a patio potentially allows you to have that pleasant bubbling [sound]," Hughes notes. "But if it's too large, it could be overpowering. So you don't want a large waterfall right next to a patio because it's more distracting than relaxing."

2 Go with the flow.

A waterfall can be applied to any pond structure by placing a 6-by-10-foot piece of flexible rubber along the side the pond. The piece can follow the path of a hill or incline, and be attached to a sheet.

Pool builders are accustomed to creating pristine sheets of water within a structure, but many pond builders opt for more natural-looking falls, says Rob Dietter, president of Dietter's Water Gardens in North Haven, Conn.

"Years ago that's what we did: We just built a sheet," he explains. "But in a natural pond, you're not going to see a perfect sheet; you're going to see a lot of random sheets.

"Ultimately, it depends on the consumer," Dietter says. "But the more you can randomly vary the patterns of what the water is doing, the more it softens the look and sound of the feature."

To achieve a natural look with a sheet waterfall, Dietter says, "would involve finding a flat rock, which would give you the sheeting action off a clean edge."

In addition to the aesthetic benefits of a waterfall, Kenny Floyd contends that it's a healthy addition to a pond's ecosystem. "It aerates the water better and is something people should consider," says the owner of Aquatic Construction in Metairie, La.

3 Be sure to dig deep.

Dig the pond to the desired shape. A backyard pond can usually be shoveled out by hand, and ranges from 18- to 30-inch depths in the deepest spots. This size is suitable for most fish and waterlilies. Plan to overdig at least 12 inches to accommodate rocks on the bottom or sides of the pond.

A koi pond, however, would require a minimum depth of 36 inches. Many enthusiasts prefer placing the koi fish in ponds up to 5 feet deep because the increased vertical swimming area allows for better muscular development. To discourage pond predators, create steep vertical sides.

For placing water plants, dig out shelving areas around the pond perimeter. Most ornamental pond plants thrive at a depth of approximately 3- to 6 inches.

Shelves also can double as planter beds. Just use mortar along the edges to anchor a single row of large rocks that will service the plants.