Why buy that? Having trouble choosing between tools? You're not alone. Here are some tips you can use next time you have to make a choice

Tools of the Trade, Sept-Oct, 2004 by Mark Clement, Rick Schwolsky

Chuck: Every tool with a bit should have a bit exchange as easy, slick, and small as the 1/4-inch hex drive. It's almost flawless.

Size: They're two-thirds the size of a drill/driver and very comfortable to hold.

CONS:

- Drive Mechanism: The variable-speed trigger is great, hut when the screw is less than 1-inch long, the tool ramps up too quickly and can cause overdrives or breakage. Only Panasonic has low and high speed, which helps solve this.

- Chuck: Hex shank bits only, which cost more and can be harder to find.

- Drilling: Not so great for holes larger than 1/2-inch diameter.

- Noise: They're loud. Driving foundation bolts, who cares, but inside a cabinet you won't hear your boom box over the noise.

- Price: Higher.

MANUAL OR SELF-LEVELING LASER LEVELS?

Assuming you're already convinced about laser levels, this decision is a no-brainer. The cost differential between manual and self-leveling units is so small, you've got to go for the self-leveler. With self-leveling units, you're up and running in a minute, so you'll make up the "extra" money you spent in set-up time alone over a couple of jobs. Get it, turn it on, and go to town.

HAMMERDRILLL OR ROTARY HAMMER?

The only time you should debate buying a hammer-drill instead of a rotary hammer is when the majority of holes you drill are 1/4-inch diameter or less. Both tools drill about the same speed in this application. So, which should you buy?

HAMMERDRILL

PROS:

Double Duty: Drills wood and concrete.

Chuck: 1/2-inch chuck accepts multiple bits, hole saws, etc.

Price: Lower.

CONS:

- Capacity: For larger holes, they consume bits and go slowly.

- Power and Durability: Designed for mostly small-hole drilling.

-Noise: Man, they're loud!

ROTARY HAMMER

PROS:

Go-to Tool: For holes more than 1/4-inch diameter in concrete/masonry.

Double Duty: Some hammers chip in addition to drilling--quite handy.

Power and Durability: Extra-tough impact mechanism designed for dedicated concrete pounding.

Noise: Not much, by comparison.

CONS:

- Bits: Dedicated, more expensive.

- Chuck: You can only use for concrete or masonry unless you have a special adapter for other bits,

- Price: Higher.

SLIDE COMPOUND OR FIXED-HEAD MITER SAW?

Landry calls the sliding compound miter saw the "microwave oven of tools." "You didn't know you needed it until you got it," he says. "Now you can't live without it." They're more expensive and heavier than fixed-head chop saws, but they cut more, cut better, and work hard from frame to finish. If you have the extra couple hundred bucks, it's worth the extra money in the long run.

CONVENTIONAL OR ARTICULATING LADDER?

Here's the breakdown: Conventional step and extension ladders do what they're designed for: straight climbs from a level surface. While that's all they do, they do it effectively. But articulating ladders are designed for these applications and many more, so why not buy one?

CONVENTIONAL LADDER

PROS:

Comfort: Wide steps or flat rungs are comfortable to stand on all day; on step ladders, there's a top platform for your tools.