Right on track: get the most from your sliding compound miter saw from frame to finish

Tools of the Trade, Nov-Dec, 2002 by Don Dunkley

Every time my tool-laden van would lurch around another curve, and the sound of crashing tools mixed with, the reek of spilled gasoline, I'd think about getting a new truck--or a new careen I didn't do either, but decided instead to travel lighten. We seem to lug around enough tools to build a shopping mall, even if we're just headed for a bathroom remodel, so it's great when we reduce what we're hauling by loading up on tools that perform more than one function.

Sliding compound miter saws are a prime example. If you're going to be hauling a miter saw, you'll get a lot more bang for the buck if you step up to a sliding compound model. While some carpenters might balk at their higher price tags and heavier weight, these saws do so many things so well, they've become my go-to tools for all my cutting.

Essential Features

A top-quality saw should bevel in both directions and have glass-smooth sliding action, an accurate miter table, and good blade visibility. To make it a worthwhile investment, it should be tough enough to handle framing and siding and still be precise enough to do exacting interior finish work. Also, the bevel clamp lever shouldn't require bear hugging the saw to find. The guard should work well enough to discourage removing it and the miter scale pointer needs to be reliable, adjustable, and easy-to-read. Since I don't believe perfect 90-degree corners really exist, easy-to-override detents are essential, especially for adjusting crown cuts made on the flat. A large fence for finish work is nice but not necessary since most guys make jigs anyway. Good power is key and so is an electric brake. A miter clamp and latch that won't leave the top of your knuckle spread across the workbench is nice, too.

Best Use: Framing

Rough Framing. Although framing is typically circ saw and radial arm saw territory, there are times when a sliding compound saw is the best choice. For example, on a small to medium house frame where a radial arm saw can be overkill, a slider easily fits the bill as your stationary saw. To maximize its efficiency--and make it so one guy can cut long pieces solo--I site-build a simple 2x4-and-plywood workbench that supports the saw and lumber stock. I use 1 1/4-inch schedule-40 PVC slipped over slightly longer 1-inch PVC fastened to a 2x4 bench as roller guides. With a 36- to 40-tooth blade, my slider handles most anything a radial arm saw can.

The frame packages I cut consist of headers (up to 4x12), sills, cripples, and non-standard studs, which 10-inch or 12-inch sliders cut nicely; however, it's not a radial arm saw and I won't push it beyond the demands of a 2,000- to 3,000-square-foot house.

Wood Floor Systems & Outdoor Decks. If I'm building a post-and-girder wood floor system, I'll use the slider for cutting all the 4-by posts and girders. Although girders don't require primo cuts and my worm drive can cut them easily (in two passes), it's still nice to work with good end-cuts. Cutting the girder support posts right on the money is where the slider earns its keep. I don't fool with the floor joists, that's my circ saw's job, but you could whack out the 11 1/4-inch rim joists for an I-joist system nicely with a sliding compound saw.

For outdoor decks, I use the slider for all my railing and stair posts as well as for getting nice miter cuts on the 2x6 handrails. I also can gang cut the mitered ends of the pickets we set between posts.

Blocking. Once the frame package is cut, my worm drive takes over until it's time to frame the roof. Here, I use the slider to cut all the eave blocking for the rafters. I build on the West Coast and most of my projects have open eaves, so it's not uncommon to cut hundreds of rafter eave blocks.

Plenty of my custom frames need rake blocks (angled blocking insert ed between wall studs that abut a lower roof elevation), The slider is great for this since angled 2x6 blocks can exceed the cut capacity of a fixed-head chop saw.

Rafters. A sliding compound miter saw may seem like an ideal saw for rafters, but truth be told, it's not worth the trouble. Proper rafter cutting is best done with two circ saws on a rafter bench. However, I run into plenty of roofs that call for exposed rafters and the slider does gorgeous work on 4x6-inch stock.

For a precise plumb cut, I lay out an accurate plumb line with a framing square on a piece of 2-by or plywood scrap cut at the same width as the rafter material. I use this pattern to adjust the slider's table and lock it down. Because the rafter pitch, when converted to degrees, is beyond the precision of the miter degree scale on the saw, I only use the pattern I've made to set the angle. Exposed work doesn't fall into the production category, so for precise results the few extra steps pay off handsomely.

Fascia. I use my circ saw to handle the mid-span joints on long runs, but when it comes to getting great joints for boxed and cornice returns sliders give the best results. Since most fascia I use is beyond the cut capacity of a fixed-head miter saw, the slider again earns its keep.