Young Japanese men pay big bucks for vanity - The pulse: the word on the street from the heart of Tokyo

Japan, Inc., Sept, 2003 by Mark McCracken

UNTIL RECENTLY, WE REALLY didn't have a name for guys who seem unnaturally concerned about their clothing, hair and shoes. Too much fashion sense and style seemed, well, feminine and unmanly. Metrosexuals, straight guys who love their clothes almost as much as their girlfriends, are a growing economic trend that is leaving the high-end luxury market salivating. And nowhere is this truer than in Japan.

Japan has long been a land addicted to high fashion. Japanese girls and office ladies form lines around new luxury stores, waiting hours to be among the first inside. And although Japanese men have for decades not thought twice about carrying a Louis Vuitton handbag, it's only recently that men are dedicating themselves to the gods of high fashion.

One glaring example of this trend is the Tuesday night Fuji Television show, "Junk Sports." A regular segment on the show, "Narita Collection," shows clips of famous Japanese sports stars walking from their arrival gate at Narita Airport to their waiting cars. Their attire is analyzed from head to toe, with emphasis on brands and prices. The total cost of their wardrobe and accessories is then meticulously calculated, and it often surpasses [yen] 1 million. One has to wonder if the stars wore their outfits throughout their entire transoceanic flights, or if they just quickly changed before landing in order to make an appearance on the show.

So what effect could this trend have on the average Japanese salaryman? Masayoshi Naruoka, a 30-year-old former Tokyoite who works for a foreign affiliated medical company in Osaka, provides some clues. If he, an ardent believer in the power of brand goods, is any indication, some very happy days lie ahead for the entire Japanese luxury goods industry.

Naruoka's company recently switched from casual Fridays to an everyday casual dress code--a rarity in Japan. But this doesn't stop him from dressing well. On any given day, the price of his own "Narita Collection" can rise to six digits.

Since he was in high school, Naruoka has used shampoo that he says is specially formulated for his particular type of hair. Each 2-liter bottle goes for a cool [yen] 16,000. [yen] 2,000 eyebrow trimmings are part of the self-grooming treatment each time he gets his hair cut. He's not embarrassed about approaching the Clinique for Men's counter at a department store. "I don't hesitate," he says. Once there, he stocks up on moisturizers, lotions and specialized shaving creams.

To the untrained eye, Naruoka's casual clothes look similar to something sold in Uniqlo. But Naruoka laughs when asked about the discount store. "I won't buy Uniqlo clothes ever," he says dismissively. What about Marutomi, another of Japan's discount retailers? "Never heard of 'em," he claims.

So, how exactly does he choose which brands will make the cut? For many Japanese, nothing beats personal endorsements from celebrities. "Many Japanese young men will select the brand (that) popular people such as talento or sports stars use. People like Hidetoshi Nakata, the very popular soccer player."

Perhaps the most telling sign of the change afoot in the Japanese psyche is the way Naruoka treats his company ID badge. For years, Japanese salarymen have been identified by the small company logo lapel pin they wear on their suits. Naruoka's company requires employees to wear a company ID badge around their necks. The company supplied a free strap emblazoned with the company logo, but Naruoka balked. Although he likes his company and is happy to wear his ID around his neck, the strap doesn't quite go with his [yen] 36,000 sunglasses. "Our company gave me a strap, but I don't think it is stylish. I can't go outside wearing our company's strap." His solution? A [yen] 10,000 Armani leather strap for his ID badge.

Anyone hoping to profit from this men's fashion trend might consider looking at importing. Naruoka has made two trips to Italy specifically because luxury items there are available for at least half-price. Clinique shaving cream, which he buys for [yen] 3,500 at a Japanese department store, is something he hoards when he goes to the US. "I can buy the same shaving cream for $5 or $7 in America."

CASUAL DRESS FOR A JAPANESE METROSEXUAL

Shampoo--Specially formulated (per bottle):             [yen] 16,000
Moisturizer--Clinique for Men:                          [yen] 16,000
Leather ID badge strap--Armani:                         [yen] 10,000
Watch--Rolex (He has another Rolex and an Omega at      [yen] 380,000
  home):
Shirt--Jil Sander:                                      [yen] 28,000
Pants--Prada:                                           [yen] 46,000
Shoes--Prada:                                           [yen] 68,000
(He has 21 more pairs of shoes end 12 pairs
  of sandals at home)

                                                 Total: [yen] 564,000