Brazilian Odyssey: from business capital to pleasure capital, a journey along the east coast of Brazil proves, once again, that South America's largest country is also among its most diverse tourist experiences

Latin CEO: Executive Strategies for the Americas, August-Sept, 2002 by Scott Singer

The Cidade Alta connects to the lower part of Salvador, Cidade Baixa, via a funicular railway, the gigantic Lacerda Elevator or the precipitous streets themselves. Although closed for routine maintenance during our visit, the elevator remains a striking symbol of the city of Salvador, and, we are told, is one of the best ways to get a view of the lower city.

The Cidade Batxa is hardly as charming as Cidade Alta, but it does house one important stop -- the Mercado Modelo covered market. The market serves as a major shopping point for Bahians and tourists alike, and is one of the few places in Salvador where most people speak and understand both Spanish and Portuguese. We found both fine and folk art pieces on our trip to the Mercado, as well as kitchen goods, futbol jerseys and a host of delicious seafood (cooked and ready to eat).

If you never take to the water while in Salvador, you will have missed out on half the city's charm. We rented a small yacht and cruised the bay From the water, the city rose up in front of us, with its churches, houses, forts and commercial buildings. Historical forts such as Santa Maria Fort and St. Anthony's Fort jut out into the water, visible only by boat. We also came across a round prison dating to 1593, and a major Brazilian military port, where we were able to motor fairly close to aircraft carriers and naval ships. Further feasts for the eyes included the nearby resort island of Itaparica.

Fortunately, Salvador is not the kind of city that wears you out. It's also not very crowded with tourists, having remained somewhat undiscovered. It won't stay that way for long, though, with multinational hotel groups opening properties there.

We stayed at the Holiday Inn Select Bahia, which just opened its doors. The hotel is tucked into a quiet street on the water in the district of Ondina, about a 15-minute drive from the Cidade Baixa. From its white, red and blue exterior to the modem contemporary furniture in the guest rooms, the Holiday Inn reflects the tropical air of Salvador, That doesn't mean the low-key hotel is low-end, though. It's high-fashion, including its sunny brushed-steel-accented lobby A pool and hot and cold whirlpool tubs sit on a deck overlooking the ocean. Two spacious restaurants provide formal and more casual dining, and there's even a business center. The hotel staff more than lived up to Bahians' reputation for cordiality, going out of their way to ensure that we were happy -- even purchasing new pillows for us when they learned we were allergic to the feather ones provided in every room. We could have spent all day sitting poolside (a breeze from the ocean keeps the temperature livable year-round), but the upscale Igu atemi Shopping mall next door called us, and we followed the siren.

Rio de Janeiro

While Brazil's most famous tourist city is best known for its beaches, shopping and nightlife, there is one tourist draw that cannot be duplicated elsewhere in the country: Rio's spectacular setting. Forest-covered mountains rise over the waters of Guanabara Bay and the Atlantic Ocean; sandy beaches stretching along the water's edge. The city contributed to its own dramatic vista with the erection of the 13-story Christ the Redeemer statue in 1931. The statue can be seen from most of the city's entry points, guarding Rio from atop the hill of the Corcovado.