Good taste in Buenos Aires: from haute French cuisine in a turn-of-the-century building to salmon and prawns served downtown, Argentina's capital provides a moveable feast

Latin CEO: Executive Strategies for the Americas, July-August, 2000 by Cynthia Plohn

ARGENTINA'S ECONOMIC CRISIS HAS NOT stopped the pace of Buenos Aires' nightlife, nor has it degraded the quality of its restaurants and bars. Many first-time visitors describe Buenos Aires as the "Latin American Paris," and it's not hard to understand why. Many of the city's buildings date to the beginning of the century; its streets are paved with stone; "El Subte," the subway, even offers wood-paneled carriages on one of its lines. Just as important, there are plenty of options for dinner, drinks or a coffee, as well as opportunities to enjoy a great variety of shows. Diners can choose among places where meat--an Argentine specialty--is the main dish, or from Argentina's distinctive mix of cuisines, a reflection of its history of foreign immigration: Italian, Spanish, Greek, Turkish, Jewish, Arab, Armenian, Japanese, Chinese, Thai and French, among others.

LA BIELA

Avenida Quintana 600. Tels.: 4804-0449/4135

>> If possible, do not leave Buenos Aires without at least stopping to sip a coffee or have a drink at La Biela, on the corner of Junin and Quintana, Recoleta. The bar, originally called "La Viridita" and then "Aerobar," earned its current name when a renowned race-car driver snapped one of his auto's connecting rods while turning the corner. It was then dubbed "La Biela Fundida"--"the melted connecting rod"--and later shortened to "La Biela."

This bar was actually founded in 1870 when the neighborhood had only a few simple homes, a monastery of reclusive monks and a church. Last year it was declared a cultural landmark by the city. The bar has been visited by Spanish kings; the presidents of several countries; writers such as Adolfo Bioy Casares, Ernesto Sabato, Jorge Luis Borges and Julio Cortazar, and by Spanish singers Joan Manuel Serrat and Joaquin Sabina. It is common to see politicians, on duty or not, sitting at the tables. La Biela's interior features a rich decor of marble table tops, wood, plants and pictures of the most important Argentine auto racers, along with trophies and original motoring caps. But don't miss the opportunity to sit outside on the terrace and enjoy the view of this upper-class neighborhood in Buenos Aires.

PATAGONIA SUR

Rocha 801. Tels.: 4303-5917/18/19

>> Founded by Francis Mailman--one of the most respected chefs in Argentina--Patagonia Sur is located in the traditional "La Boca" neighborhood, just one block away from Caminito. Architect Pablo Sanchez Elia transformed a historic three-story house into the restaurant. The intimate 40-person dining room has walls lined with Burgundy leather, with wine-colored velvet curtains, hand-made wooden tables and tablecloths, Reidel crystal wineglasses, English tableware and silver cutlery. A small private room on the second floor seats 14, and features a tapestry from 1700 and large antique glass vases full of calla lilies and seasonal flowers.

"We look for the best domestic products," explains chef and manager Paola Carrosella. "On the menu clients will find, according to the season, fresh Usuhaian spider crabs, Patagonia lamb, meat of the Pampas, salmon, prawns, organic fruits and vegetables and the best Italian cheeses." Or, you can simply sit down and order drinks from the bar's collection which includes Armagnacs and a series of aged spirits. The menu varies weekly, and you will find new dishes every day. Patagonia Sur also has more than 150 wine varieties, with prices ranging from US$20 to US$1,100 a bottle.

CLARK'S RECOLETA

Junin 1777. Tel.: 4801-9502

>> Clark's was born from the 1974 business merger of Alberto "Gato" Dumas--well-known chef and television host--and entrepreneur Micky Gonzalez Moreno. Although the restaurant's owners have changed, the original style remains. The atmosphere is elegant and sober, with hunting trophies, wooden floors and a counter where customers can try different drinks before dinner. The menu offers options such as champignons farcis; the traditional Clark's loin; carpaccio with extra virgin olive oil and parmesan cheese; an entire suckling pig served for two; southern salmon and sea trout; spider crab from Tierra del Fuego; and prawns. There is also Argentine meat (loin, sirloin, etc.), Patagonia lamb carre and pork ribs. Clark's was a favorite restaurant of Argentine writer Jorge Luis Borges, and is often visited by local businessmen and celebrities. The Spanish royal family enjoyed the food during their last visit to Argentina.

MICHELANGELO

Balcarce 433. Tel.: 4531-5392

>> Near the Government House (Pink House), the Plaza de Mayo and the Buenos Aires Cathedral, Michelangelo offers one of the city's best tango shows. While modernizing the building in 1996 for its re-opening, the Center for Urban Archeology excavated the inner part of the structure and recovered plates, saucepans, bottles, glasses, buttons, drawing pencils and coins from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries. A copper coin from 1827 and a silver coin from 1689 are on display at the entrance.

A delicious full menu and bar accompany the "Supertango" show. Singers, musicians and dancers present a 'Music Hall" on the story and evolution of tango. One of today's most famous dancing pairs, Gloria and Eduardo, are in charge of the choreography They are joined by five partners on stage and backed up by the Norberto Ramos orchestra. Singers Karma Rivera and Diego Hernan complete the staff, Several small rooms at Michelangelo are excellent for private events and meetings: the Tango Show (300 people), Tango Bar Saloon (80 people) and the Historical Wine Cellar (40 people).