Another side of Brazil - Executive Travel Salvador, Brazil

South Florida CEO, Jan, 2003 by Rochelle Broder-Singer

For visitors who have been to Rio de Janeiro or Sao Paulo, Brazil is clearly a modern, urban country. Few people make it farther north, to Bahia state, where the city of Salvador offers a quieter, more out-of-the-way retreat.

Resplendent historical architecture, Caribbean-like weather, subtropical foliage and a heavily Afro-Brazilian population -- all are trademarks of Salvador in Bahia state, the cradle of Afro-Brazilian religions Candomble and Umbanda. In part because of those religions and their traditions of art, song and dance, Salvador is home to a disproportionate number of the country's famous artists, such as musicians Astrud Gilberto and Joao Gilberto and novelist Jorge Amado.

By all means, take in the culture while in Salvador -- attend any music clubs and dance celebrations you can. But don't miss the history, preserved in the city's upper portion, Cidade Alta, also known as Centro. There, colonial architecture flows along cobblestone streets and open plazas (rife with unrelenting vendors selling jewelry and religious trinkets), in 34 churches and a string of pastel townhouses. A walking tour of the area includes such buildings as the Palacio do Rio Branco (formerly the governor's palace), the 17th-century city hall building, and the Igreja de Sao Francisco and the Igreja da Ordem Terceira de Sao Francisco -- religious buildings of incredible beauty. An entire cloister of Igreja de Sao Francisco is decorated with incredible blue and white tiles depicting the marriage of the king of Portugal. The Igreja da Ordem Terceira de Silo Francisco is covered in square-cut ashlar stones depicting the seven deadly sins in great detail. Inside, its reliquary is decorated with ornate 1940s Art Deco detailing.

In nearby Jesuit square, young men demonstrate Brazil's fighting-dancing blend of martial art known as capoeira, a dance of leaps, kicks and near-misses.

The Cidade Alta connects to the lower part of Salvador, Cidade Baixa, via precipitous streets, a funicular railway or the gigantic Lacerda Elevator. Although closed for routine maintenance during our visit, the elevator remains a striking symbol of the city of Salvador, and, we are told, is one of the best ways to get a view of the lower city.

The Cidade Baixa is hardly as charming as Cidade Alta, but it does house one important stop -- the Mercado Modelo covered market, a major shopping point for Bahians and tourists alike. We found both fine and folk art pieces there, as well as a host of delicious ready-to-eat seafood.

One of the best things about Salvador is that it's a seaside city, and staying at the right hotel lets you feel like you're at a resort. That's how we felt at the Holiday Inn Select Bahia. The hotel is tucked into a quiet street on the water in the Ondina district, about a 15-minute drive from the Cidade Baixa. From its white, red and blue exterior, to its sunny, brushed-steel-accented lobby and modern contemporary furniture, the Holiday Inn feels both tropical and high-fashion. A pool and hot-and cold-whirlpool tubs sit on a deck overlooking the ocean. Two spacious restaurants provide formal and casual dining, and there's even a business center. The hotel staff lives up to Bahians' reputation for cordiality -- even purchasing new pillows for us when they learned we were allergic to the feather pillows provided in every room.

Make sure to spend at least some time on the water. With the hotel's help, we rented a boat and cruised the bay. From the water, the city rose up in front us, with its churches, houses and commercial buildings. Several of its historical forts, jutting into the water, are visible only by boat. We also came across a round prison dating to 1593, and a major Brazilian military port, where we were able to motor fairly close to aircraft carriers and naval ships. Further feasts for the eyes included the nearby resort island of Itaparica.

Fortunately, Salvador is not the kind of city that wears you out. It's also not very crowded with tourists, having remained somewhat undiscovered. We finished our trip lolling poolside at the Holiday Inn, reveling in the ocean breeze that keeps temperatures livable year-round, until the siren song of the upscale Iguatemi Shopping mall next door called us. We heeded the call, wrapping up old world experience with that of the new.

Holiday Inn Select Bahia: 55-71-263-8888 www.sixcontinentshotels.com