Uruguay: if you're in search of a vacation that combines relaxing on the beach, urban sightseeing and a healthy dose of history, consider Montevideo and the southern regions of Uruguay - Travel

South Florida CEO, March, 2004 by Rochelle Broder-Singer

As a travel destination, Uruguay is well-known among Latin Americans and Europeans. In the US, it is known, if at all, for its capital of Montevideo, site of the secretariat for the Mercosur trade block. It's a shame, because Montevideo is both a fascinating city and an excellent starting point for trips to the beach resort of Punta del Este and the historic village of Colonia, each within a two-hour drive.

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We set up "base" at the Holiday Inn Montevideo, just off the Plaza Independencia. The Plaza is at the heart of the city's commercial district, and demarcates the boundary between its modern downtown and the cobble-stoned colonial city. Standing in the Plaza gives you a 360-degree view of the architecture for which Montevideo is famous: the colonial city gate, Puerta de la Ciudadela; the baroque Palacio Salvo apartment building; the art-deco Palacio Rinaldi with its hand-crafted reliefs; and the contemporary towers of modernistic hotels and office buildings. In some spots, you can even catch a glimpse of the wide water of the Rio de la Plata, which divides Uruguay from Argentina.

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A short distance from Plaza Independencia, you can see a completely different style of architecture at the Mercado del Puerto. The wrought-iron Mercado began life as a prefabricated train station made in Britain and destined for Chile. Shipping problems meant it never got further than Montevideo's port. Today, it houses an assortment of restaurants and lunch grills, serving Uruguay's famous grilled steaks and sausages, as well as excellent prawns.

Other architectural delights include the Catedral Metropolitano, worth a visit for its ornate tombs, wall tiling and unusual domes. A drive through the Prado residential neighborhood (the city's first wealthy neighborhood, now middle class) is a treat for its historic century-old houses and its Platanos Australes trees, which form shady canopies. In Prado, take a few minutes to delight at the Petit Notre Dame--a smaller copy of the Notre Dame, both inside and out.

While Montevideo is clearly an urban, working and sometimes gritty city, the capital has an extensive array of public parks, rife with greenery and monuments. The gigantic Prado Park, for one, offers a tempting place to relax and picnic, and is home to more than 60 varieties of roses in its aptly named Rose Garden. And do not miss the Plaza de Armada, on the outskirts of Montevideo, jutting from the shores of the Plata. If you can, arrive in time to watch the sunset from the Monumento a los Caidos en Servicio de la Armada (monument to all those who died in service of the navy), from where you can see the water, coastline and city center, all at once.

For more architectural delights, head down the coast about two hours to the Colonial city of Colonia. The rural trip is full of diversions, including the Arenas Granja Colonia (the Arenas Colonia Farm). Spend some time tasting the farm's array of eclectically-flavored jams (from onion and red pepper to pumpkin and guava) before heading to Colonia itself. Originally a Portuguese settlement before falling into Spanish hands, it holds a dense collection of 17th century structures. An architectural dig at the Plaza de Interpretacion reveals the footprint of some of these antique buildings, while others remain open for viewing along side streets. The preponderance of antique automobiles cruising the streets completes the trip back in time. You can even hop on a hydrofoil for a pleasant 45-minute trip across the Rio de la Plata to Buenos Aires.

In the other direction from Montevideo, physically and psychologically, is the vacation resort of Punta del Este, which plays home to the glitterati of South America, especially its entertainment elite. Located on a peninsula which divides the Rio de la Plata from the Atlantic, it has long, immaculate beaches lined with high rises. In contrast to Montevideo, Punta claims a well-developed tourist industry, and features a variety of restaurants, boutique and major hotels, art galleries and museums. A nearby island colony of sea lions, reachable by ferry, and whale-watching opportunities, offer other diversions. The highlight of our day trip to Punta was a leisurely lunch at a beachfront restaurant, open to the sand and surf. With a gentle breeze wafting through, we got a much-needed break from beef by sampling the local fish and seafood.

Holiday Inn Montevideo, 011-00-598-2-902-00-01. www.holidayinn.com.uy