Bring it on: with 15 different cuts of meat to choose from and an all-you-can eat manifesto, Chima Brazilian Steakhouse is a carnivore's delight

South Florida CEO, June, 2004 by Barbara Perkins

Call it a Brazilian shrine to Dr. Atkins. Lanced on metal skewers, a parade of meats--pork loin (lomba), sausage (linguica), Iamb (cordeiro), filet mignon, sirloins--are the main ingredient at Chima, a new eatery in downtown Fort Lauderdale. The meats are offered with such abandon by circulating waiters that you really have to pace yourself. We did just that on a recent visit and had a superb dining experience.

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Located far from the chaos that is the heart of Las Olas, Chima is nestled into an unlikely space on the far east end of the boulevard. Set back from the street, the courtyard entrance is enchanting, with a waterfall, fire-infused sculptures and two magnificent Banyan trees strung with glimmering white lights.

The courtyard also features a small bar, long benches and a handful of bar-height cocktail tables where patrons can enjoy a drink before dinner--while watching, through oversized windows, a legion of chefs firing up entrees on their grills.

Inside the restaurant (which seats 295) are four good-sized rooms in addition to a full bar. The combination of a warm earthtone color scheme, comfortable seating. Brazilian music and soft lighting provide an intimate and elegant atmosphere.

One of the most relaxing parts about dining at Chima is that there are no hard and fast decisions to make. With the exception of choosing from the extensive wine list, there is no stress about placing an order. For a fixed price of $40, dinner includes unlimited trips to the well-stocked salad bar and countless visits by roving gauchos. Dressed in traditional attire--black pants tucked into leather boots and puffy white shirts--these guys parade around the rooms with sword-like skewers, stopping at each table to carve off slices of seared meat. Each diner is armed with a small poker-style chip, orange on one side and black on the other: when you've had enough meat to eat, a simple flip of the chip signals the boys to back off. A reverse flip will bring them hustling back. The wait staff work as a team and, without exception, are attentive, pleasant and surprisingly unobtrusive.

Our meal began with olive flavored cheese bread dabbed with zesty garlic butter. Then it was off to the salad bar (although that term doesn't quite fit what amounts to a station of interesting side dishes). We were impressed by the array: excellent cheeses (including buffalo mozzarella and blue cheese mousse); white and green asparagus; smoked salmon; carpaccio; waldorf salad; two types of rice; a crispy Caesar salad; a variety of olives and nuts.

As good as all this can get, however, the meat steals the show. Each time a flurry of gauchos came our way, they offered an impressive selection of meats served to taste, from rare to well done, and always piping hot. We especially liked the tender filet mignon, while the flank cut, lamb chops and spicy Brazilian sausage were all outstanding as well. With a flip of the chip, we also tried the pork loin, prime rib, chicken wrapped in smoked bacon and salmon. Again, all first rate.

Even after all of this we couldn't resist looking at the dessert menu. Here we finally had to make a choice. Traditional items like tiramisu and key lime pie sounded good, but we opted for the Brazilian specialties. Papaya cream--a sweet and creamy dish--may have been better if it had a more solid consistency, like the pecan cream, which, on the other hand, shined.

Chima is a great spot to come with a group. The cuisine is substantial, the atmosphere vibrant and, if you want to sit back and relax, you can make a night of it. if you do, you won't be disappointed.

Chima Brazilian Steakhouse 2400 East Las Olas Boulevard, Fort Lauderdale. Open 7 days 5:30pm-11pm. Reservations (954) 712-0580.