Dining guide

South Florida CEO, August, 2002

There is no sauce in the world like hunger.

MIGUEL DE CERVANTES

SOUTH BEACH

Blue Door 1685 Collins Avenue. 305-674-6400. This fabulous restaurant in the ultra-chic Delano Hotel on South Beach just gets better and better. Opt for Blue Seas spanking-fresh sushi or Baby Blue's inventive prix fixe menu. And Sunday brunch is simply marvelous. Open daily, 7 a.m.-Midnight. $$$$

China Grill 404 Washington Avenue. 305-534-2211. Flashy and frequently packed, the meant-for-sharing Pan Asian cuisine is always good and highly innovative. Flash-fried crispy spinach is a must-try, as is the wasabi-glazed grouper with chipotle mashed potatoes. Great bar scene, cool interior. Open Sun.-Thurs., Noon-Midnight; Fri.-Sat., Noon-1 a.m. $$$$

Mark's South Beach 1120 Collins Avenue. 305-604-9050. Mark Militello's eatery in the Nash Hotel is outfitted in gorgeous mahogany and linen wallpaper, but you can get an equally pretty plate of food. Case in point: cornmeal-dusted black grouper wrapped in Serrano ham and zucchini ribbons. Or try the yellowtail snapper with lemon couscous, Open 7 days, Noon-3 p.m., 7 p.m.-11:30 p.m. $$$$

Nemo 100 Collins Avenue. 305-532-4550. Nestled at the southern tip of the Beach, Nemo has been going strong since opening in 1995. Great raw bar selection as well as meat and poultry, but leg of lamb over apricot-cardamom sauce shines. Don't skip a great dessert by pastry chef Hedy Goldsmith. Lovely courtyard dining area. Open Mon-Fri., Noon-3 p.m., 7 p.m.-Midnight; Sat.-Sun., 11 a.m.-3 p.m., 6 p.m.-11 p.m.

Nobu 1901 Collins Avenue. 305-695-3100. Chef Nobuyuki Matushisa brings one of NYC's most popular sushi restaurants to the Beach, and it's predictably popular. Signature black cod with miso, as well as "new-style sashimi" (hot olive oil poured over the raw fish) are not to be missed. Arctic char is especially tasty. Open Mon.-Thurs., 6 p.m.-Midnight; Fri.-Sat., 6 p.m.-1 a.m.; Sun., 6 p.m.-11 p.m. $$$$

Pacific Time 915 Lincoln Road. 305-534-5979. Attractive, soothing modern interior and open kitchen make Pacific Time an elegant place to dine. Always packed, the restaurant's Asian-American dishes certainly hold their own. The Florida pompano entree is stunning, as is the cuttlefish appetizer. Cinnamon-grilled squab is also excellent. Open Sun.-Thurs., 6 p.m-11 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 6 p.m.-Midnight. $$$$

Tuscan Steak 433 Washington Avenue. 305-534-2233. Typical steakhouse decor doesn't mean typical steakhouse fare at this Beach staple. Filet mignon with a Gorgonzola crust is appropriately rich, as is Florentine T-bone. Expect pastas imbued with earthy truffles and cream, risotto redolent of white truffle oil. Meat platters are served family style. Open Sun.-Thurs., 6 p.m.-11 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 6 p.m-1 a.m. $$$$

NORTH MIAMI/AVENTURA

Chef Allen's 19088 NE 29th Avenue. 305-935-2900. Diners flock to Aventura to taste Chef Allen Susser's contemporary American masterpieces centered on local flavors. Five-pepper-charred yellowtail with grilled chayote is stunning, as is the appetizer of Bahamian lobster and crab cakes with tropical fruit chutney. Kirsch souffle for dessert. Menu changes often. Open 7 days, 6 p.m.-10 p.m. $$$$

Hanna's Gourmet Diner 13951 Biscayne Boulevard. 305-947-2255. Aptly named, this dining-car diner features excellent French-inspired food in an informal setting. Herb-crusted lamb and chicken chasseur are faves, as is the steamed art choke with homemade pink vinaigrette. Don't miss a flaky, perfect custard fruit fart -- it's heaven on a fork. Open 7 days, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. $$

Hiro 3007 NE 163rd Street. 305-948-3687. This North Miami mainstay is packed nightly, with diners flocking to get artfully prepared sushi, sashimi and yakitori. The extensive menu offers some decent stir-fries, noodle dishes and teriyakis. The salmon tempura roll -- with cream cheese and asparagus -- is so good it's scary. Open 7 days, Noon-Midnight. $$

CORAL GABLES

Christy's 3101 Ponce de Leon Boulevard. 305-446-1400. Long-standing Gables power lunch establishment. Great steaks, best prime rib in town and renowned Caesar salads. Open Mon.-Fri., 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Sat.-Sun., 5 p.m-10 p.m. $$$$

La Dorada 177 Giralda Avenue. 305-446-2002. Fine Spanish cuisine begins and ends at La Dorada, which flies fresh fish in daily from the Bay of Biscay. Whole fish baked in rock salt is satisfyingly moist and tender, and the gazpacho is a cool treat in hot South Florida Traditional Spanish desserts are a must. Open Mon-Sat., 11:30 am-3:30 p.m., 6:30 p.m.-11 p.m. Sun.; Noon-8 p.m. $$$$

La Palme d'Or 1200 Anastasia Avenue. 305-445-1926. This super-elegant restaurant in the swanky Biltmore Hotel features hearty food prepared with a delicate flair, but do consider visiting just for the pampering by the competent waitstaff. Fole gras ravioli with goat cheese and truffles is sinful, as is sea bass on wilted spinach. Open Sun.-Thurs., 6 p.m-10:30 p.m.; Fri-Sat., 6 p.m-11:30 p.m. $$$$

Norman's 21 Almeria Avenue. 305-446-6767. Norman Van Aken is practically a household name in South Florida, and for good reason: His New World cuisine constantly pushes the culinary envelope. Try the wine-braised lamb shanks with caramelized root vegetables or his signature rum-and-pepper-painted grouper fillet. Great paella too. Portions small but exquisite. Open 7 days, 6 p.m-10:30 p.m. $$$$