Time for tea: in celebration of the remarkable craftmanship involved in the making and taking of a cup of tea, Peter Brown tells the extraordinary story of how one of the best-loved beverages was introduced to the Western world

Apollo, April, 2004 by Peter Brown

(6) H. Reinders and J. Wijsenbeek, Koffie in Nederland, Amsterdam, 1994, p 22,

(7) Alexander de Rhodes, Divers voyages et missions en In Chine, et autres Royaumes de l'Orient, 1653, chapter 13: 'De l'usage de Tay qui est fore ordinaire en la Chine', quoted in P. Brown, In Praise of Hot Liquors, York, 1995, p. 49.

(8) Dictionary, of National Biography, London, 1922, p. 583.

(9) Both Arlington and Ossory had married daughters of the Lord of Bevernwaert, a kinsman of the Prince of Orange.

(10) Commodities Manual, 1819, from a collection of papers and books assembled by J.B. Morrell and now in York Reference Library, 663.9.

(11) British Library, An exact description of the growth, quality and vertues of the leaf TEE, alias TAY Thos. Garway c. 1660. (ref: c.20.f.2. (376)).

'The particular vertues are these:

It maketh the Body active and lusty.

It helpeth the Headache giddiness and heaviness thereof.

It removeth the Obstructions of the Spleen.

It is very good against the Stone and Gravel, cleansing the Kidneys and Uriters being drank with Virgins Honey instead of Sugar.

It taketh away the difficulty of breathing, opening Obstructions.

It is good against Lipitude Distillations, and cleareth the Sight.

It removeth Lassitude, and cleanseth and purifieth adult Humors and a hot Liver.

It is good against Crudities, strengthening the weakness of the Ventricle or Stomach, causing good Appetite and Digestion, and particularly for Men of a corpulent Body, and such as are great eaters of Flesh.

It vanquisheth heavy Dreams, easeth the Brain, and Strengtheneth the Memory.

It overcometh superfluous Sleep, and prevents Sleepiness in general, a draught of the Infusion being taken, so that without trouble whole nights may be spent in study without hurt to the Body, in that it moderately heateth and bindeth the mouth of the Stomach.

It prevents and cures Argues, Surtets and Fevers, by infusing a fit quantity of the Leaf thereby provoking a most gentle Vomit and breathing of the Pores, and hath been given with wonderful success.

It (being prepared and drank with Milk and Water) strengtheneth the inward parts, and prevents Consumptions, and powerfully asswageth the pains of the Bowels, or griping of the Guts and Looseness.

It is good for Colds, Dropsies and Scurveys, if properly infused, purging the Blood by Sweat and Urine, and expelleth Infection.

It drives away all pains in the Collick proceeding from Wind and purgeth safety the Gall'.

(12) A. Fraser, King Charles II, London, 1979, p. 205.

(13) Sir Kenelm Digby, The Closet opened, London, 1671, p. 144: 'The Jesuit that came from China anna 1664 told Mr. Waller, that there they use sometimes in this manner, To near a pint of the infusion, take two yolks of new-laid eggs, and beat them very, well with as much fine Sugar as is sufficient for this quantity of liquor; when they are very well incorporated, pour your Tea upon the Eggs and Sugar, and stir them well together. So drink it hot. This is when you come home from attending business abroad, and are very hungry, and yet have not conveniency to eat presently a competent meal. This presently discusseth and satisfieth all rawness and indigence of the stomach, flieth suddenly over the whole body, and into the veins, and strengthneth exceedingly, and preserves one a good while from necessity of eating. Mr. Waller findeth all those effects of it thus'.