Sugar Hill Bistro - Hot Spot

Latino Leaders: The National Magazine of the Successful American Latino, April-May, 2003 by Jimmy Briggs

458 W. 145th St. New York, NY (212) 491-5505

On a tree-lined block in uptown Manhattan the spirit of the Harlem Renaissance thrives in a four-story brownstone called the Sugar Hill Bistro. A restaurant and jazz lounge that opened in the fall of 2001, the establishment is owned and managed by a group of longtime neighborhood residents and business owners. Sugar Hill Bistro offers quality music and an eclectic cuisine with Southern and Caribbean influences. For a vibrant social environment away from trendier downtown spots, this is the place to go.

A landmark building, the first floor of the brownstone is the jazz lounge, which seats 75 people. There is no cover charge. but a two-drink minimum, and three live jazz sets nightly from Thursday to Saturday starting at 9 p.m.

Upstairs on the second floor is the main dining room area, with parquet wood floors and tables covered with white linen cloths. The walls are adorned with modern art as well as vintage black-and-white photographs from the early to mid-20th century. Service is given at a premium by an ever-present wait staff dressed in all-black outfits and pressed white aprons.

Though not extensive, the menu is tasteful and diverse. Appetizers and salads range in price from $8.00 to $14.00. These include succulent pork tenderloin medallions with lardoons and mushrooms, tofu Napoleon with marinara and vegetables, and wild Spanish shrimp with ginger, time, and jalapeno. The most recommended entree is the blackened catfish with champagne shallot sauce and potatoes. Served in ample portions, the boneless fish is wonderfully flavored and filling. Other main course possibilities such as the prime rib, vegetable ravioli, and Szecbuan snapper with banana sauce are all served in generous portions and are distinct culinary feats balancing different influences and tastes. The weekend buffet selections are expanded to include stuffed French toast, bacon, turkey sausage, bow tie pasta with salmon, ham steaks, and barbecued ribs, with a la carte items such as mushroom and spinach omelet, and grilled chicken breast.

The main dining area on the second floor is open from 5 p.m. till 11:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday, and 5 p.m. till 10 p.m. on Sundays. Reservations are encouraged.