A flair for Mexican fare: La Palapa: Restaurateurs Barbara Sibley and Margaritte Malfy are often found conversing with customers, sampling their own culinary creations, or tending to W.H. Aude's penchant for quesadillas between stanzas - Cuisine

Latino Leaders: The National Magazine of the Successful American Latino, April-May, 2003 by Lu Herrera

Walking east on St. Mark's Place--past the chaotic host of stores and cafes toward a more serene semblance of normality--you will find La Palapa Cocina Mexicana. It's another world, one you might be unfortunate enough to pass by unless your curiosity about the name lures you in, or you have dined there before and know exactly what you would be missing.

La Palapa restaurant opened in New York City in late 2000; it is the home of authentic Mexican cuisine-- por fin! created by Barbara Sibley and Margaritte Malfy, who have gathered recipes from various regions of el mundo mexicano to please the palate. Like the food, the restaurant is rich with a history that parallels the lives of the owners. Exiled Russian revolutionary Leon Trotsky printed political literature in the room that now houses the restaurant, explains Sibley, age 40, (before he left the United States and went to live in Mexico, courtesy of Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo). The printing press is a small reminder of that time and is kept in the beams above the bar as part of the decor, which Sibley will happily point out. Malfy, also 40, who fell in love with Mexico years ago, believes that the location "was meant to be a Mexican restaurant."

In addition to Trotsky, the owners hold claim to W.H. Auden's ghost--he resided in the building tot nearly 30 years--and is said to visit la Palapa from time to time for a quick sip of mescal. And fortunately for us, the cultural collision of food, literature, and socialism works well.

On entering La Palapa for the first time, one has a distinct feeling of intimacy, like walking into a home filled with devotion--and an artistic, yet tasteful, flair for decorating. The eye politely scans the area: pre-Columbian artifacts, silver-framed mirrors, paintings of Mexico City (Sibley's place of birth), all against background hues of creamy white and burnt sienna that propel the mind straight to Mexico.

There is a dining area by the windows, where the tables and matching equipales are imported from Mexico. Walk down three wooden steps into the main room where there is a slight trace of mouthwatering aromas lingering in the air. There is cozy room in the back--the size of a walk-in closet--called the Poet's House (in honor of Auden). One wall is stenciled with quotes from Mexican writers, including Barbara's sister, author Jennifer Clement. On the other side of the restaurant, nicked away just past the kitchen, is ma enclosed garden where private parties are held.

Whether nested in a quiet afternoon or the bustle of the evening, diners are greeted with a warm smile and are seated by the owners or an employee who looks happy to be there. During the day is the best time to enjoy the culinary feast on offer. There is no wait for a table. (Brunch hasn't caught oil yet. Some people still confuse Mexican food with TexMex). If you're lucky, you might strike up a conversation with Sibley or Malfy. And this is when things get even more interesting.

Fifteen minutes with the owners, and it is obvious why this two-person tag team works so well. From their vision for the restaurant to the day-today operations, they are one mad the same--even when they speak. The flow of their conversation is reminiscent of, say, Abbott and Costello's knack for timing and precision. And it's amusing that they finish each other's sentences, or interrupt each other to add vital but forgotten information, or talk at the same lime without either of them stopping. These are the qualities of a good team. And Sibley and Malfy are as inspiring as their story.

The partners met less than two decades ago at the Telephone Bar and Grill restaurant where they both worked. Sibley was the general manager, and Malfy was the assistant manager. Though they had spoken about opening their own restaurant, it wasn't until 1987 that they decided on an authentic Mexican restaurant. That year Sibley and Malfy traveled to Mexico City for an art exhibit of New York artists, which showed their own artwork. "We had already been talking about opening a restaurant together," explains Sibley. "Showing Margaritte the City--my country--we just realized that we wanted to be able to have that in New York. We thought it would be a great idea. Margaritte is also a chef, and we both love food. We love to cook. We're great cooks, and we're great eaters. The more we worked [in restaurants], the more we realized that our passion was not just our art but our restaurateuring as well."

"We've always worked for other people," says Malfy. "We figured we would do the thing we know best."

Few people would question their judgment, although they did raise more than just a few eyebrows when they decided to purchase the restaurant space. "Our friends were saying, 'What are you doing? What if you can't raise the money?'" says Sibley. But there was no what if. There wasn't any time for doubt. They saw the space at St. Mark's Place in May and immediately signed on the dotted line, down payment in hand. Shortly after, they set to work raising funds, approximately $500,000, and working toward their goal of opening before Thanksgiving Day. The restaurant opened on November 24.