A flair for Mexican fare: La Palapa: Restaurateurs Barbara Sibley and Margaritte Malfy are often found conversing with customers, sampling their own culinary creations, or tending to W.H. Aude's penchant for quesadillas between stanzas - Cuisine

Latino Leaders: The National Magazine of the Successful American Latino, April-May, 2003 by Lu Herrera

Somewhere in the middle of all that work, they still had to come up with a name. The idea came from Sibley's boyfriend, and it stuck. In fact, palapas are shelters with palm-thatched roofs found in Mexico and parts of the Caribbean. "Basically, it's the idea of a shelter. We want La Palapa to feel like your home," says Sibley. Malfy adds, "It's a place you go to get out of the sun and have something to drink, like a beer. It should feel like you're on a mini-vacation of the senses."

But it's really more like an assault on the senses as you walk through someone's kitchen; everything smells inviting. The singular virtue of their food is the preparation: for the most part, it's all homemade. The menu makes good use of standard Mexican ingredients--corn, plantains, cactus, and chiles--to create what Sibley calls "home cooking." On occasion, diners are forgiven for ordering a burrito with extra guard camole, although it's not on the menu, but politely told where to go. "The food is very traditional. Very authentic," says Sibley. "I've been collecting recipes most of my life. And Margaritte has ever since she went to Mexico City for the first time." The menu is kept small for their regular customers, and they create special menus for the various holidays.

Nothing takes center stage here, not even the food. There are no starring roles--well, maybe the mole. "We've kind of become known for our red mole and our black mole," says Malfy. "We make all the mole from scratch, which takes a long time because you have to grind all of the nuts. The duck and black mole is one of the most popular dishes and really delicious."

Truly, the food is as good to look at as it is to eat. For cheese lovers, La Palapa uses three different cheeses--anejo, Monterey Jack, and queso fresco, which is made on the premises. For a dab of all three, try the quesadillas; they almost melt in your mouth.

A meal in an authentic restaurant is not complete without a drink. La Palapa boasts having over 25 tequilas and a variety of "killer" margaritas. But the real deal is the mescal. "We're selling a lot more higher end tequilas," says Malfy. "But mescal is going to be the next thing. Right now, people are just learning about mescal." It has a distinct taste different from tequila. It's a smoother drink with a smoky taste and, as Sibley claims, makes colors brighter. Another favorite drink is their nonalcoholic Mexican iced tea, agua fresca, made with hibiscus, sugar, and lime. It's utterly delicious.

All in all, La Palapa serves as a reminder, for those who need one, of what authentic Mexican food--and drink--should be. With appetizers and side dishes priced at no more than $5, and main courses ranging from $13 to $19, the cost of dining at La Palapa is beyond reasonable. In New York City it's downright cheap.

Lu Herrera is a freelance writer living in New York City.