Wire work 101: part one; The basics of building a bracelet

Expression, Jan-Feb, 2005 by Cooky Schock

Bracelets have a long history when it comes to personal adornment. They have changed in size and style over time, but one thing has remained constant: bracelets are the unspoken symbol of the wearer's unique fashion statement.

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Bracelets can be simple or over-the-top. This bracelet is designed as an introduction to one of my favorite things: wire work. Think of this as a sample of basic techniques including how to make clasps and loops to build a basic bracelet. In the March/April 2005 issue we'll add dangles and head pins for a more advanced technique. Up for a challenge?

INSTRUCTIONS

Main Bracelet Body 1. Measure your wrist with the tape measure, allowing enough room to hang comfortably. Subtract 1 inch for the clasp and another 2 1/2 inches for the jump rings. Divide the remainder by four or five, depending on how many focal beads you used. Each of your main bead sections will be this measurement. 2. Cut a 4-inch piece of 16-gauge wire. Both ends should be flush cut. (Photo 1) Note: The flat side of the cutter produces the "flush" or flat edge. The inside, or v-shaped part of the cutter creates a pointed end. (Photo 2) To make a flush cut from this piece, simply cut above the point with the flat side of the cutter opposite the point. Sometimes there will be a little point of wire where the two cutting jaws meet on the flush end. Use a file to smooth it. 3. Using the felt-tip pen, mark the round-nose pliers 1/4 inch down from the tip. You'll have to remark your tool as you work with the wire. This will be your guide to making the eye pins. 4. Hold the wire in the jaws of the round-nose pliers using the pen mark as your guide. There should be no wire poking out. Now turn the pliers away from your body about 1/4 turn, pressing the thumb of your other hand down on the wire. When you can turn no further, release the wire and reposition your pliers until a full circle is formed. (Photo 3) 5. Without removing the pliers, rotate them back so that the top jaw is on the straight part of the wire at the base of the circle and the back jaw still within the circle. (Photo 4) 6. Turn the pliers toward your body and with your pointer finger of the opposite hand press the wire against the pliers. You are forming a right angle bend at the base of the circle. This should look like a lollipop on a stick. (Photo 5) 7. Stack your beads and spacers on the wire. Remember that not everything has to be perfectly balanced. Get playful with this project! 8. Cut the remaining end of wire about 5/8-inch long. Repeat steps 3-5 to complete the second eye pin. You have just completed the first focal bead stack! 9. Make the remainder of your focal bead stacks. These will be easy! Just repeat the steps used above. 10. Open one end of a focal bead stack by turning the eye pin sideways using the chain-nose pliers. Slip the soldered jump ring into the eye pin and close. 11. Use this method to link up all the bead stacks.

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The Clasp The clasp on any piece of jewelry is always the point of most stress. It must be strong enough to withstand constant tension while still looking good. I like to use 14-gauge wire because of its heftiness and it looks great after it has been hammered. Hammering increases the strength of the clasp by a process called "work hardening." 1. Be sure that both ends of the wire are flush cut. File each end to remove the little pinch of wire if necessary. Each end can be tapped out (Photo 6) then the circle formed. 2. Using the tip of your round-nose pliers, make a small circle at each end going in opposite directions. (Photo 7) 3. Place the wire into the jaws of the round-nose pliers at the bottom or fattest part with the circle sitting on top of the pliers. Rotate the pliers away from your body with your opposite thumb pressing the wire against the pliers. Whew--such contortions! (Photo 8 & 9) 4. Repeat for the other end of the clasp. 5. Tap out the curved part at each end of the clasp. I call this "tapping" because that's exactly what the action should be. Hammering is what we would do if we were nailing something. Tap out each side of both ends. (Photo 10) Note: This clasp can easily be made smaller or larger by placing the pliers further from the circles in the first step (larger) or by making the curves wider in the second step (smaller). All changes and adjustments need to be made before you tap out the clasp. Work-hardened wire is very hard to reshape. 6. Attach the clasp to one end of the bracelet. At this point you can do one of two things: Admire what you've done so far and set it aside or put it on and wear it as the very cool piece that it already is! In "Wire Work 101. Part Two" we will make spiral head pins and wrapped bead dangles. Then we will connect it all up.

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