Lights! Camera! Table saw? How to build a custom book press and score points with your significant other

Expression, May-June, 2005 by Jim Gardner

Finally, a project to put your man to work. We've filled these pages with a gazillion projects for you to do ... why not throw this your hubby's way and get him out of your hair for awhile. Tell him it's "safe" to do it, he won't get girl cooties, and he just might score some serious points with you. It's already written in "man-speak" too!

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

Okay guys (and maybe some dedicated book gals) this is an easy project that not only makes you out to be the good guy, but lets you use some of those tools that have been sitting (rusting?) in the shop. When you're finished, you can sit back, smile and say, "Oh yeah, that little thing? I did it in just a few minutes in my spare time." Yeah, right. Plus, your significant other will get some bragging rights about you. "Store-bought?" she might say with disdain. "No, this is a custom book press my husband made for me," delivered with just a hint of a smug look.

We decided upon red oak as the basis for our press. While veneered chipboard such as melamine would offer a nice work surface for our platens, the raw edges produced during the build are unattractive. Perhaps our tool doesn't need to look nice, but the warm, natural look of wood is always pleasing. Feel free to cut corners where you can--or want to--but even the decent quality materials came in at well under what a beauty like this would cost you!

INSTRUCTIONS

Note: A table saw and drill press are great aids to building this project, although with care, construction can be completed with an electric drill and handsaw. 1. Commence by cutting two 17-inch lengths of the 1" X 12" to form the platens. The cut edges will probably show a few splinters, so cut these off and break all sharp edges lightly with a sanding block and 120-grit sandpaper. Measurement will show our supposed 1" X 12" plank is actually 11 1/4" in width by only 3/4" in thickness. Take this into consideration as you carefully mark the centerline and then lay out the center of our guide holes at 1 3/4-inches inboard from each end. The best instrument to cut these holes is a 1 1/8-inch diameter Forstner bit, and the use of a drill press will help ensure accurately placed holes. (Photo 1) 2. With the holes cut and the sharp edges lightly dressed with sandpaper, we elected to trim the corners of the platens at 45 degrees just to make them look a bit more finished. It's certainly not required. 3. To add strength and avoid any possibility of warping, we'll reinforce the platens with two ribs apiece--placed as far apart as possible while still clearing the top and bottom clamp pieces. The ribs attached to the bottom platen also form a pair of stable feet. 4. Our ribs are cut from the 1" X 2" red oak to a length of 11 1/4" to match the width of the platens, and again we chose to cut these with 45-degree ends. (Photo 2) These ribs must be attached with both screws and a good grade of wood glue, so the next step is to drill each rib to accept four screws. Mark a centerline across the top of each rib and lay out four evenly spaced hole locations. 5. Drill four 3/16-inch clearance holes in each rib before countersinking the top surface to bring the screw head flush. Drop a screw through each hole and verify that no more than 1/2-inch of thread protrudes. (Photo 3) You must be absolutely certain of this or you risk puncturing through the working surface of the platen. Now is the time to sand all wood pieces to the degree you desire. 6. With all the wood components prepared we must now do a little metal work. Begin by measuring from each threaded end of the pipe to a length of 13 inches. A hacksaw or metal cutting bandsaw is the tool to use here. After cutting, dress the raw edges with a file or grinder. 7. The fixed jaw of the No. 56 Pony clamp must be modified by drilling two 3/16-inch holes for attaching screws. The location of these holes is not critical so long as you leave sufficient clearance for the screw head. (Photo 4) Pencil in your desired locations, then center punch deeply before drilling. With that operation completed we're ready to assemble our book press. 8. Thread the fixed clamp jaws securely to the pipe sections. Pass each pipe through the hole in your bottom platen. Orient the fixed jaw along the centerline of the platen and then use a pencil through the holes in the jaw piece to mark the four hole locations on the wood. 9. Best results will be obtained if you drill pilot holes for all screws. Mark your drill bit with a "flag" of masking tape to ensure you don't drill too deeply. Our fixed clamp jaws are attached with the number 10X3/4" screws, and you'll see the stepped surface requires us to use two washers to shim up the outboard end of the jaw piece. Don't torque these screws tight, but allow just a little float to help alignment. (Photo 5) 10. Slip the upper platen over the pipe sections and then slide on the moving jaw assemblies. With the clamps in place, you'll see where the ribs must be attached. Set them as far outboard as possible while allowing good clearance for the clamps. 11. Lay the ribs out square to the long sides of the platen, carefully mark your existing hole locations from each rib, then pilot drill. Apply a liberal amount of glue on both mating surfaces before screwing them tightly into place. Wipe off excess squeeze out with a damp towel and the assembly is done. (Photo 6 & 7) 12. As a final step, cut two 6 1/2-inch lengths from your scrap 1" X 2" to use as props. These are handy to hold the upper platen out of your way while arranging your work.