Wipeout!

Sea & Shore, Summer, 2009 by Daryl Dawson

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My first mistake was thinking I could surf Oahu's infamous North Shore, home to some of the most powerful waves in the world. Adrenaline--seeking surfers, often with years of experience, travel to this island every winter to charge Pipeline, Waimea Bay, Sunset, Haleiwa, and other popular spots along the North Shore of Oahu.

I had been on the island a mere three days when I decided to drive up the Kamehameha Highway and buy a surfboard. In retrospect, there are plenty of beginner places all over the island I could have gone to, including the popular tourist spots, Waikiki, Barber's Point, and White Plains. I was determined, though, to start my surfing career on the North Shore.

My experience bodyboarding in the Atlantic off Florida and Maryland had given me a false confidence; I figured I'd quickly be able to pick up the sport of surfing. I had no idea what I was looking for when I got out of the car, but I met Luiz, a resident surfer of the North Shore, who hooked me up with an 8-foot board. Not certain what to do next, I asked him where I should go, and he told me there was a good spot only a five-minute drive up the road.

I pulled into the parking lot, fumbled with my new board, and made my way down to the beach. I saw the sets rolling in; experienced surfers were catching the waves with ease. I probably should have heeded the butterflies in my stomach, which were my body's way of telling me this idea was bad.

One of the most important differences between East Coast beaches on the mainland and the beaches of Oahu is the type of bottom. The beaches I know, such as Virginia Beach, Bethany Beach, and Jax Beach, normally are covered in sand, with a few shells. Off most of Hawaii's beaches are rocks and reefs, which often are partly exposed during low tide.

Unaware, I pressed on and paddled out. I didn't make it very far before a couple of small waves caught me off guard and crashed into my face. I sputtered and tried not to swallow all the saltwater that went up my nose and filled my mouth.

I paddled a little farther and finally made it into the lineup. I watched the other surfers for about 20 minutes before I built up enough courage to take on a wave myself. I picked out a wave and positioned myself in front of it. Taking a couple of deep breaths, I paddled hard and felt the white water wash over me, sending me and my board speeding toward the beach. I still was holding on, so I decided to try standing.

What the other surfers don't convey in their movements is how much balance and coordination this part of the process requires. I think I stood up for about two seconds before I wobbled and crashed into the water. The sandy bottom I expected to find wasn't there. Instead, it was sharp reef and rocks.

As soon as my shoulder hit the rock, I knew instantly what the sharp pain on my right side meant: I had dislocated my shoulder. Another surfer helped me out of the water and onto the beach. My shoulder and right side were covered in scrapes and bruises, and I barely could move my right arm.

The next day, a doctor confirmed my injury and told me I wouldn't be able to participate in any strenuous activity for at least six weeks. I also missed ship's movement, due to an urgent MRI appointment and the immediate commencement of physical therapy.

I had dodged a bullet in not being injured so seriously I couldn't make it back to shore. After several months of physical therapy, I still had a desire to surf, but I pursued the sport the right way the next time. I found a couple of friends who were interested, and we all took lessons together from an experienced instructor in calmer water.

Here are lessons I learned from this experience:

* Get lessons from a licensed instructor before hitting the beaches in Hawaii.

* Don't go alone if you aren't familiar with the environment. Know the type of shore the waves break onto.

* Go with friends who have experience and can help if needed. Always have a cellphone handy. Know the location of the closest medical facility.

* Rent a board before you buy one. Make sure you can handle the sport before investing in equipment.

* Find beaches that support your experience level. The North Shore can be fun, but it's dangerous for new surfers. Most newcomers to the sport should stay to the southern portion of the island.

Story by Ens. Daryl Dawson

Resources:

* Surfing Safety and Etiquette, http://www.wbsurfcamp.com/safety/ss_surfing.asp

* Common Hazardous Beach, Surf & Ocean Conditions, http://www.aloha.com/~lifeguards/hazards1.html

Both the author and photographer were assigned to USS Chung-Hoon (DDG-93) when they sent me this article.-Ed.