Cosmetics packaging 2002: simplicity. functionality. comfort. Converging influences—terrorist attacks, the economy, the pendulum swing of fashion—have made cosmetic packaging personally accessible

Food & Drug Packaging, April, 2002 by William Makely

Over the years, what has been more luxurious (or less practical) than cosmetic packaging? From the epitome of luxury and glamour of the glass fragrance bottle to the simplest lipstick, packaging for cosmetic products has been more remarkable for its appearance--its visibility--than for its utility. Not much function following form here.

Perhaps the emphasis on style began because the product was considered a luxury. Or perhaps the high price tag needed to be justified with grand presentation. In any case, until the past few years, the trend had been upstream from the general packaging trends of increasing functionality, simplicity, consistent brand projection and recyclability.

German design firm DieterBakicDesign sees in the political and economic events of 2001 an influence on cosmetic package design that calls for a return to more natural--perhaps more comforting, more secure--shapes and colors.

Annette Green, president of The Fragrance Foundation, foresees packaging in 2002 turning away from the impersonal designs of the 1990s and becoming more focused on projecting an emotional appeal rather than mere "glitz."

For 2002, it appears that the events of 2001 are converging with trends that have been growing for several years--trends taking cosmetic packaging away from complex, impersonal package design and toward simpler, more functional and accessible packaging.

SIMPLICITY

Simplicity in packaging boils down to "no added interest." Origins, for instance, is a company that stresses enhancing the total well being of the individual through the use of natural skin, hair and body care products. The company's packaging uses simple whites and greens to reflect its commitment to simplicity of its products, which use no added color or fragrance.

Green is identified by The Fragrance Foundation (among others) to be the important color in cosmetic packaging this year, as a projector of and appeal to emotion. In light of that, printing substrates for folding cartons and carded products will be carefully chosen for their ability to accept and project a variety of ink colors from sharp, brilliant reds to muted shades.

Substrates like MeadWestvaco's Crescendo[TM] paperboard have been developed specifically to provide the reliable, on-press performance that such printing requires. Coated on one side, the bright white board offers a mirror-smooth finish for superior graphics.

Marc Tannenbaum, MeadWestvaco manager of marketing, points out that the new board is compatible with pearl, iridescent, matte or gloss aqueous and ultraviolet (UV) coatings and performs well in embossing/debossing, scoring, folding, foil stamping and such. MeadWestvaco currently provides paperboard for Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and other leading cosmetic marketers.

A move toward simplicity of design means that unique physical shapes will no longer dominate package choice. Marketers can work with classic stock packages, spending less of the packaging budget on molds and more on decoration to achieve the final package look. Inoac Packaging Group offers a broad line of high-quality stock plastic bottles and jars that, decorated with simple elegance, become classic packages.

DieterBakic, for instance, predicts that colors inspire by nature will dominate this year's packaging: graphics projecting the purity of snowy mountains, the warmth of a beach fire or the serenity of a night sky.

FUNCTIONALITY

One aspect of cosmetic packaging that is growing exponentially is the search for functionality: how can the package reinforce the relationship between the consumer and the product by making it easier to use, easier to carry or safer.

Seeking to simplify life for the busy 21st century woman, Cover Girl introduced in January of 2002 CG Smoothers AquaSmooth, a new category of make-up that combines the benefits of several liquid and powder products into one (see "A case in point: Multifunction Cover Girl" on page 24).

Such multi-functional products need thoughtful packaging, both to support the function and to help project its uniqueness. The AquaSmooth compact is simple and sleek, with rich color and a shape that fits the hand comfortably. It is convenient to carry and to use. It also helps maintain product consistency and freshness with an airtight seal.

The remarkable popularity of resealable plastic stand-up pouches (SUPs) in other categories has led to their use with cosmetic products, like the M-A-C Pro Lash mascara tube. An SUP lets the product (previously packaged in a carton, like most mascara tubes) stand up on the shelf, visible in an eye-catching film package created by Specialized Films & Associates. The converter combined a sheer gray front film and a solid, dark gray back film to recreate M-A-C's gunmetal signature color. And, because it's resealable, the pouch also functions as a mini cosmetic bag. (Also see article "Pouch gives mascara eye-catching appeal" on page 49.)

ACCESSIBILITY

Cosmetic package design is moving away from the "straining for effects" of the past. Design for effect places a greater emphasis on appearance than on function, and that erects a barrier between the user and the product. Pfeiffer's Metropolitan pump, designed by DieterBakic, is an example of a component designed with the user in mind, rather than a viewing audience.