The explosion of braids, `locks and twists - Beauty and style: for the new black woman

Ebony, Sept, 2002 by Zondra Hughes

The explosion of braids, `locks and twists on the scene is undeniable. Just take a good look around you: On CNN, in music videos, on boardwalks and in boardrooms, in courtrooms and on tennis courts, Sisters are flaunting the latest in braided and natural hairstyles.

There are various reasons that these styles are all the rage. When done professionally, braids look fabulous, are convenient for the wearer and can stimulate growth to cover those thinning, troubled spots. Additionally, the natural and extension braided styles are endless--ranging from close-cropped twists to individual braids, plaits (contrasting patterns), cornrows, `locks, coils, micro-braids, waves and knots--and they are popping up everywhere. Tennis superstars Venus and Serena Williams wear long individual braids; Alicia Keys wears zigzag plait braids; rapper/actress Queen Latifah occasionally wears cornrows; and actresses Whoopi Goldberg and Kim Fields wear `locks.

But it's not just the entertainers and sports superstars wearing braided and natural hairstyles; some of the top-ranked women in corporate America are doing it, too. Jocelyn Carter-Miller, executive vice president and chief marketing officer for Office Depot, wears coils, and Chicagoan Karen McGee, vice president, City Region-Community Outreach for Harris Trust and Savings Bank, wears single-strand twists.

Stylish CNN Headline News entertainment anchor Alisha Davis is famous for her long individual braids, which she routinely adorns with an electrifying splash of color.

"I visit the stylist to get my braids done every six weeks, but I get touch-ups in-between," Davis says. "Then I take some ribbon and I wrap it around a braid myself. I choose my color based on my mood, and I don't change it every day. I just dress and I think, `Well, I'm feeling a little red today.'"

Vershaun Sanders, a professional modern dancer, says her two-stranded twists are a god-send for Sisters in her line of work.

"Dancing can get very sweaty, so it helps to still appear fresh, and for my hair not to be all over the place when I'm dancing," she says. "It also helps in terms of manageability when I'm traveling. I don't need an hour to do my hair every morning. I'm ready to go in about 20 minutes."

The Chicagoan adds that convenience isn't the only benefit of her hairstyle.

"The men love it; it's something different, and it is very natural," she says.

Braid wearers are often ecstatic over the low-maintenance required to keep such beautiful hairstyles, but low-maintenance doesn't mean no-maintenance. Depending on the style you desire, regular visits to a professional stylist is a must.

Believe it or not, neglecting your braided hair can lead to just as much damage and breakage as constant heat-styling or overprocessing your hair. At the very least, all braided styles require that your scalp be kept conditioned and moisturized.

Bank executive McGee found herself spending too much time caring for her long, relaxed hair, so several months ago she clipped it and began wearing a short Afro. She soon discovered the need for a professional stylist.

"Even though my hair was in a natural, it was still city and damaged because I wasn't providing the right kind of care," explains McGee, who now wears single-strand twists. "Now I go directly to a hairstylist to work with me and my hair is healthier than it has ever been."

Achieving healthy hair while wearing a braided hairstyle requires maintaining a healthy diet, getting plenty of rest, drinking plenty of water, avoiding stressful environments and getting an occasional scalp massage, hair specialists say. Here are more tips to help you achieve or maintain healthy braided and natural hairstyles.

Avoid Hair Breakage. Some women suffer thinning hair around the hairline because the hair in this area is more fragile. Ponytails and braids (especially when they are done too tightly) can tug your hair and cause stress on your edges. A steady moisturizing and conditioning routine can help soothe problem areas and add moisture to brittle, damaged hair.

Look for products that rebuild the hair follicle and restore elasticity, to your hair. Some hairstylists recommend a protein treatment followed by a good conditioner.

Treat Your Scalp. To keep the scalp and hair moisturized, oil the scalp and hair once a week, or as often as needed. Avoid heavy scalp conditioners, which can leave unsightly residue in the crevices of your braids. Ask your stylist about how often you should shampoo and condition your scalp.

Don't wear your braids too long. Superstar Alicia Keys says she gets her braids done at least once every two weeks. Most experts recommend wearing your braids anywhere from 2 weeks to 3 months, depending on the style. It is not recommended that braids be worn longer than 3 months. To remove braids, cut your extensions as close to your natural hair as possible and then wet your hair. Using a medium-tooth comb, pick your braids loose gently; comb out your natural hair with a wide-tooth comb and then shampoo and condition your hair.