Wearing the Pants - Brief Article

Ebony, Oct, 1999

THERE was a time when a woman who included pants in her business wardrobe would have been considered a rebel. She may have been sent home, reprimanded and even, in rare cases, fired if she dared to break company dress codes that required her to wear skirts. Today, Sisters not only have more flexibility in their attire, hut they're wearing the pants in boardrooms, government buildings and corporate offices across America--strutting their stuff with style and grace. From chic pantsuits to gabardine trousers, businesswomen of the '90s have made pants their own.

"I would wear them every day if I could," says Marcey Carroll, assistant vice president/senior underwriter for Finova Capital Corp. "I think they look just as professional as skirts."

For many Sisters, pants evoke power: They're all about feeling strong and confident in a world where some still consider working women inferior.

Benet Debeny-Spence, director for U.S. marketing, new products for Searle Corp., prefers pantsuits to skirts. The Chicago executive feels that she gains more respect from her peers when she wears trousers. Other women agree. Carroll, a New York businesswoman, feels men take her more seriously when she wears pants.

"I like wearing skirts, but I think pantsuits put me on the same level as a man," she says. "I think it takes away from the sexuality of wearing a skirt."

As Sisters make inroads in the corporate world, they demand to be considered equals. Mini-skirted suits may work for TV lawyer Ally McBeal, but for the average woman, a conservative dress or pantsuit is more fitting.

Pants are versatile. You can find them in any style or color. And when worn with a matching jacket, they look pulled-together and clean. They're comfortable and classy, and more forgiving of body flaws than dresses. Pants camouflage skinny legs or thick thighs and hips. Businesses are beginning to accept them as the way of the world. According to one article, the sale of pantsuits grew more than 100 percent between 1990 and 1995, making slacks an all-around favorite for businesswomen on the go.

Part of the reason for the popularity of pants is their relaxed feel. They look just as good as skirts, but some women say they offer more comfort--and more warmth, particularly when the temperature dips in winter and fall. In addition, they offer flexibility for those long work days. You can wear them with a white shirt, belt and flat oxfords for a crisp look. Or for more feminine appeal, try wearing slacks with an angora sweater and high heels.

Gone is much of the stigma that associated women who wore pants with less than feminine appeal. Stores carry slacks in styles and shapes that flatter your figure. These days, most designers carry pants and pantsuits as part of their collections. It's all about finding the right pair for you. Consider your workplace when selecting a style. In conservative businesses such as banking, you may do well to stay with dark-colored suits in a traditional cut. Industries such as journalism and fashion might allow more freedom.

Still, there are rules to follow. Women should use common sense in their dress, experts say. Save the ripped jeans, stirrup pants, leggings and wrinkled khakis for Saturday afternoon. Make sure the pants fit--not too baggy or too tight. If they have belt loops, wear a belt. Or wear a tailored shirt that comes down over the top of the slacks. Make sure your shoes complement the outfit.

Wearing pants is no excuse to slip on tennis shoes or thongs.

Some businesses still prefer that women not wear pants. Knowing this, Sisters may want to save the pantsuits for after you get the job. Some executives--both women and men--consider pants less formal than traditional skirt suits and dresses. Wearing a skirt makes sense, in these cases, particularly for job interviews and first meetings with important clients.

Once hired, you can gauge the atmosphere of your workplace and consider the tone of dress for people in your field. Do most managers wear skirts and dresses or do an equal number wear pants? Do executives always wear pants with coordinated blazers or can you get away with classic trousers and a silk blouse? Carroll says while her workplace is open to women wearing pantsuits, she would not feel comfortable wearing slacks without a matching jacket. Also important is fabric. Pants worn to the office should be dressy, she says. Casual pants--even with a blazer--may not be appropriate in some work settings. Each situation is different. It's all about knowing the rules and making them work for you.

And sometimes--as in the case of women who pioneered pants on the job--it's about creating rules of your own.

RELATED ARTICLE: 5 Essential Tips When Wearing Pants on the Job

Consider the fabric. Cotton pants might be good for the weekend. But you want something dressier--think gabardine, wool and linen--for work.

Make sure the pants are pressed.

Choose pants that flatter your figure, but make sure they're appropriate. Baggy pants and tight slacks are both no-nos.