Black designers: excitement, ethnicity and elegance on the runways - EBONY Fashion Fair

Ebony, Feb, 2004 by Eunice W. Johnson

African-American designers continue to create exciting, innovative designs that compete and compare favorably with those from well-known European and American designers. The Ebony Fashion Fair show has always been a showcase for Black designers, and this season several are featured alongside garments from Givenchy, Bill Blass and Lancetti. There are the artsy leather designs from L'Amour and the classy gowns of B Michael and Fusha. Here we present dazzling designs from some of the country's most talented Black designers.

L'AMOUR AMEER designs strapless leather patchwork gown with detached sleeves accented with long leather tassels. The Dayton, Ohio, native started designing clothing when he was a teen and now specializes in wools, leathers and suede garments that are "art for wear." Among his clients are Vivica A. Fox, Bill Cosby, Eddie Griffin, and various NBA players.

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B Michael is known for the elegance and sophistication of his designs. At right are his pink/gold one-sleeve, shirred body-hugging gown with train, and silver silk taffeta "wedding cake" gown with inverted tucks. A native of Durham, Conn., he credits his keen sense of flair and creativity to his mother and describes his signature style as "a modern approach to glamour ... a very sophisticated yet simplistic look ... a woman who wears B Michael knows how to wear a great basic dress and make it look glamorous." The Harlem resident has clients among socialites and celebrities such as Nancy Wilson, Lena Horne, Halle Berry, Venus and Serena Williams, and Gate Blanchett. The co-founder of DM Fashion Group also is guest lecturer and critic at New York's Fashion Institute of Technology.

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ANTONIO WINGFIELD design black gown with red/white squiggles, cape sleeve and assymetrical hemline, and (above right) jumpsuit with velvet bolero jacket with cape sleeves. Wingfield began sketching and painting as a child. "Because I am also an artist, I like for the design to tell a story and act as a visual expression of the inner self, embracing the woman was if she was born to wear it. My garments ... are a juxtaposition of simplicity and drama." His favorite fabrics are silks and satins.

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KEVAN HALL'S sequined silk halter, snake-print gown with flared hemline is accented with copper chain necklace and cuffs with ostrich feathers. The internationally acclaimed fashion designer emphasizes purity of style, incomparable tailoring and sensuously draped streamlined silhouettes, The former design and creative director for the House of Halston won the prestigious 2003 Chicago Gold Coast t Fashion Award and continues to design his signature took for clients, including celebrities such as Celine Dion, Mariah Carey, Selma Hayek, Patti LaBelle, Minnie Driver and Charlize Theron. "I enjoy the process of design from concept to execution," he says. "But the most gratifying part is seeing a design come to life on a beautiful woman."

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STEPHEN BURROWS' color-block knit ensemble tops halter and cropped pant with jacket with patch pockets. His multilayer two-tone silk chiffon strapless dress has empire bodice. Known as the first African-American designer to achieve international acclaim, Burrows is back en vogue with classic American style influenced by dance, music and the body. Burrows, who studied at the Fashion Institute of Technology, "retired" from the N.Y. fashion scene in 1983, but the Newark, N.J., native's designs returned to the runway in 2002. His Stephen Burrows World couture line is back at Henri Bendel, and his vintage pieces are more popular than ever. Burrows' designs can be seen on HBO's Sex and the City, and he counts Diana Ross, Cher and Barbra Streisand among his loyal clients.

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BEULAH COOLEY presents a sassy, unique design for Valentine's Day: red and gold silk lace hearts adorn clear plastic dress. Cooley's first fashion design inspiration came as she watched her mother cut dress and shirt patterns for her family. She began sewing in 8th grade and started ! making her own clothes. The fashion innovator known for her one-of-a-kind creations runs her ready-to-wear line, featuring suits and dresses, of her home in Detroit.

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FUSHA'S creation include black transparent beaded gown with green taffetta bodice and sash (left), and powder blue ensemble of silk taffeta with beaded halter top, slim pant with beaded panel and anklelenght coat with unusual sleeves. Marie Claudinette Jean launched her Fusha Designs couture line in 2000. The Haiti native and New Jersey resident favors hand-beading, unique fabric combinations and innovative use of color. Her designs are favored by he husband, recording artist Wyclef Jean, Mary J. Blige, Kelly Price, Ja Rule and Whitney Houston.

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WAYNE JAMES' lilac silk suit is adored with feathers on sleeves of double-breasted jacket with cowl-collar portrait neckline, and on hem of skirt. Accessorized with matching pleated turban. The St. Croix native was in his last semester at Georgetown University Law School when he presented his first collection in New York's SoHo, and Bergdorf Goodman bought exclusive rights to sell his collection in Manhattan. He has designed garments for Pope John Paul II, Queen Margrethe II of Denmark and the late Princess Diana. James also has created a line of island-inspired seasonings and sauces called Carnival and is finishing a book on fashion and food.