A fabric of our own

Ebony, Feb, 2005 by Eunice W. Johnson

We often know their names and see their incredible designs shown on the runways of New York, Paris, Milan and London--in the mix with other world-renowned style leaders. But most people don't realize that the talented men and women who create these astonishing fashions are African-American. In observance of Black History Month, on these pages we showcase a sampling of creations from some of the increasing number of Black designers who are turning heads and setting trends in the world of high fashion. Several of these designers, including Eric Gaskins and Kate Mack, are proudly featured in the current Ebony Fashion Fair show.

QUINTON DE ALEXANDER

Quinton de Alexander is renowned for his dramatic, head-turning designs that some media have described as "breathtaking" and "marvelous." The Chicago resident grew up in New Orleans, where as a child his interest in fashion was piqued when he spotted an old sewing machine at a garage sale. Before long, he was making perfect potholders, and went on to teach himself the intricacies of fashion design by trial and error. He has an extensive line of women's apparel but also a line of distinguished men's attire with powerful suits and evening wear.

Left: De Alexander's strapless, sequined satin column gown with voluminous opera coat with opulent puff sleeves.

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TRACY REESE

Tracy Reese has distinguished herself with designs she describes as "feminine chic." Both her lines, Tracy Reese and Plenty, are defined by bright colors, unusual prints and intricate patterns. A graduate of Parsons School of Design, Reese apprenticed with Martine Sitbon at Arlequin Paris in New York before working at Perry Ellis and then Magaschoni, where she began designing under her own label. Whimsical and breezy, her designs combine modern technology with vintage flair. Both lines are available at top department stores and specialty boutiques.

Far Right: Tracy Reese's gold brocade strapless cocktail dress has chiffon fabric accenting the back.

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ERIC GASKINS

New York designer Eric Gaskins combines rare talent with discipline and drive and has firmly established himself as one of the nation's top couturiers. Eric, a native of Groton, Mass., discovered his passion for design while creating costumes for the drama guild in college. As an apprentice to renowned designer Hubert de Givenchy, Gaskins mastered the craftsmanship and techniques he later used to create his signature clean and elegant styles. Gaskins' visionary use of color and styling that flatters feminine curves has made his designs a favorite among entertainment's leading ladies, including Jada Pinkett Smith, Vanessa Williams, Melanie Griffith, Jennifer Lopez, Goldie Hawn and Salma Hayek. Since opening his own fashion house in 1988, Gaskins has wowed his customers with sleek and sexy evening gowns, cocktail attire, luxurious sportswear and day suiting. His new collection, Jolie By Eric Gaskins, is sold exclusively on QVC.

Right: Eric Gaskins' elegant beaded platinum silk gown has camisole bodice with gem-stone straps, satin ribbon Lie at waist and skirt adorned with beads and ostrich feathers. Accessorized with diamond jewelry and platinum satin shoes,

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KATE MACK

Kate Mack is a self-taught young designer of West Indian heritage (with "Afro American culture") who was born in Paris and educated there at the Sorbonne. Trained in makeup and hair styling, she managed the Xuly Bet Boutik (also a Black designer) for four years before creating her Patches collection within Xuly Bets fall/winter 2000-2001 collection. She left Bet to create her Kate Mack label in July 2001, and in 2002 her collection was featured in Vogue Brazil. Kate Mack's designs, which are featured in the current Ebony Fashion Fair show, are distributed in Paris, Madrid, Geneva, Brussels and Japan.

Left: Kate Mack's dazzling hooded cowl-neck silk jersey gown has bell sleeves and a wicked off-center front split, It is accessorized with an oversized crocodile and mink hip wrap and red sling-back heels.

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LAURENCE STEELE

Lawrence Steele is widely known for his supercharged, sexy and feminine clothing. His talent for combining sartorial skill, sublime styling and detail, luxurious fabrication and intricate finishes has created a growing demand for his internationally stylish creations. With a degree in fine art from the School of the Art Institute of Chicago, Steele worked in Tokyo as a design assistant, which within a year led him to Milan, Italy, which is still his home. He spent five years as design assistant to Franco Moschino. In 1990, he joined Miuccia Prada as she transformed her family's line of classic leather goods into one of the most prestigious clothing empires in the world. In 1994, Steele launched his own line of women's clothing. Jennifer Aniston chose him to create the gorgeous gown she wore when she wed Brad Pitt in 2000. Other fans of his designs include Oprah Winfrey, Naomi Campbell, Lauryn Hill, Meg Ryan and Julia Roberts, "I want to make clothes modern women will find utterly desirable" he says. "My vision is sexy, glamorous, sensuous and a little dangerous;'