Culinary Connections - many African Americans overlook careers as chefs - Recipe

Ebony, May, 2001 by Charlotte Lyons

Throughout the food industry there are a number of talented and creative individuals who are making major contributions--that include (but aren't limited to) the art of food preparation. On these pages, we highlight some of those contributors who continue to display the varied skills that have gained them respect in culinary circles.

WALTER J. ROYAL Executive Chef * The Angus Barn * Raleigh, N.C.

Walter J. Royal directs a kitchen staff of more than 80 people and oversees the preparation of more than 500 pounds of beef every week. The 42-year-old chef flexes his creative muscles by developing special menus in the restaurant's exclusive Wine Cellar room. In 1997, Royal became the first Black chef to receive the prestigious Five Star Chef of the Year Award from the International Restaurant Guild. Other awards have included the Best Chef in the Raleigh-Durham-Chapel Hill Triangle area, the Top Black Chef in America, and a Rising Star by The James Beard Association. He will also lead a group of food journalists through Western France this spring, exploring the foods of the region and demonstrating how subtle ingredients indigenous to the South can influence the composition of the dish.

Alabama-born, Royal acquired his passion for Southern food from his grandmother, and at age 17 decided that he wanted to cook professionally. His family, concerned that being a successful Black chef in the South was risky business, encouraged him to attend college instead. He went to LaGrange College in Georgia and Auburn University in Alabama, graduating with a master's degree in psychology. Royal worked with mentally disadvantaged children for five years, until he had the time and resources to take a nine-month course at Nathalie Dupree's Cooking School in Atlanta.

Before joining The Angus Barn in 1996, Royal developed his skills at a number of top restaurants in the Raleigh-Durham-Chapel HIll Triangle area. In 1982 he joined Fearrington House in Pittsboro, working as sous chef under the famed Edna Lewis. In 1986, he moved to Durham's Magnolia Grill. From 1990 to 1991, Royal was executive chef/co-owner of The Crescent Cafe in Durham. Stints at Claire's Mangum House and the Inn at Bonnie Brae followed.

Royal's personal philosophy is simple: "Don't ever [think] you can't. You can do anything in life that you put your mind and will behind. It might not be easy, but keep plugging away at it, and you'll get there. This applies to anyone in any business in any walk of life." His advice to young people just starting in the profession: "Schooling is important; start early. Cooking is not the most glamorous career, but if you have a passion for food, it can be the most rewarding."

B&B Marinated And Fried Chicken

1 whole fryer, cut into 8 pieces,
  washed and excess fat
  removed
  Salt and pepper to taste
2 tablespoons B&B liqueur
1 cup buttermilk
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons thyme
1 tablespoon basil
1 tablespoon oregano
1 teaspoon garlic powder
  Pinch of cayenne
2 cups peanut oil

Season chicken pieces with salt and pepper. Combine B&B liqueur and buttermilk in glass baking dish. Place chicken in buttermilk mixture, turning chicken pieces to coat; cover with plastic wrap and refigerate overnight. Combine flour; thyme, basil, oregano, garlic powder; salt and pepper in large bowl; set aside. Heat peanut oil in large, heavy-bottomed frying pan over moderate heat. Meanwhile, remove chicken pieces from marinade and coat with flour mixture. Carefully place chicken in oil and cook until golden brown on bottom side. Turn and cook other side until golden brown. Remove from oil and place onto a broiling pan. Place into 350-degree preheated oven for 10 minutes.

To Make Pan Gravy: Drain drippings from broiling pan into a saucepan. Heat over medium heat. Add 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour; stirring constantly, until nice and brown. Add 1 1/2 cups chicken broth or stock. Continue cooking and stirring until thickened. Add 2 tablespoons B&B Liqueur and adjust seasoning. Serve with chicken.

Yields 4 servings

B&B Marinated Grilled Pork Tenderloin

3 1/2-pound pork tenderloin,
  trimmed
  Cracked black pepper and salt
  to taste
1/2 cup chopped shallots
1/3 cup chopped garlic
1 tablespoon fresh lavender
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 cup B&B liqueur

Season pork with cracked black pepper and salt. Combine remaining ingredients in large glass bowl. Immerse pork in ingredients, cover and marinate overnight in refrigerator, turning occasionally.

Before grilling, remove pork from refrigerator and let it come to room temperature (about 1 hour). Grill over medium heat for 15 to 20 minutes. Let stand 2 minutes. Slice and serve. This marinade is also wonderful with leg of lamb.

Yields about 6 servings

CONNIE BASS Director of Outside Sales and Marketing Encounter Restaurant Los Angeles International Airport

A secret recipe, hard work and determination are the key elements in Connie Bass' diagram for success. As the director at the award-winning Encounter Restaurant, she is responsible for local marketing efforts, community outreach and media relations. As a side dish, the Los Angeles native positions the restaurant as an entity for airport travelers, as well for the diverse communities surrounding the airport.