Taking the bumps out of shaving

Ebony, July, 2004

HAROLD Williams can remember that he just couldn't wait until he was old enough to shave. As a child, he watched his father every morning and equated that morning ritual with being an adult.

Now, 22 years later, Williams is walking in his father's footsteps, but he didn't anticipate one unsightly, uncomfortable and undesirable problem--razor bumps. For nearly 11 million men, most of them of African descent, psendofolliculitis barbae (razor bumps) is an unwanted byproduct of shaving.

The problem results when growing beard hairs curl over and grow back into the skin, causing inflammation and, in some cases, eventual keloidal scarring. But thanks to new and continous developments in blades, gels, moisturizers and other shaving accessories, razor bumps can be limited.

Dermatologists, who continue to see a growing number of patients with shaving-related problems, say the best way to deal with razor bumps and ingrown hairs is prevention, stressing that attention has to be paid to the entire process--pre-shave, actual shave and after-shave. It's not difficult to find various pre-shave products that soften the hair follicle (some which enter the follicle and serve as an antibacterial agent; new, technologically improved razors and blades produce smoother, closer, less-irritating shaves; and soothing moisturizers (containing lactic acid or glycolic acid) are recommended as final touches to complete a comfortable, effective shave.

If you are one of the millions who are dealing with razor bumps, doctors say you should be mindful of the fact that the bumps can be infected very easily, and squeezing will likely make things worse. A topical antibiotic is recommended, especially if there is a cut or skin abrasion.

With a little more attention to preparation and the use of newly developed products, dermatologists say the common problem of razor bumps can either be prevented or at least become less of a nuisance.

TIPS TO PREVENT OR MINIMIZE RAZOR BUMPS

1. Before shaving, use a facial scrub, which helps raise the hairs from under the skin and prevents them from growing back into the skin.

2. Wash your face with a mild cleanser and massage the beard area gently in a circular motion with a warm, moist, soft washcloth.

3. Use a good shaving cream to reduce friction and irritation.

4. Don't stretch the skin while shaving, which increases the chance that the hair will recoil below skin level and cause an infection.

5. Shave with the grain, not against it.

6. Don't go over the same area more than twice.

7. Change razor blades regularly.

8. Choose a razor that won't cut hair shafts so far down that they may recoil too far into the follicles.

9. After the shave is complete, rinse thoroughly with warm water and apply a mild, moisturizing lotion.

10. If the condition persists, see your doctor or a dermatologist.