The new hair freedom: with variety in color, length and texture, Black women of the '90s enjoy coiffure choices from traditional to Afrocentric

Ebony, Oct, 1996 by Lynn Norment

In mid-'90s, as we move swiftly toward a new millenium, Black women are experiencing a bonanza of hair freedom that is unprecedented in modern times. Or any given day on any busy street of any American city, you Will find beautiful Black women sporting a vast array of hairstyles, colors, lengths and textures.

From silky straight, shoulder-length styles to close-cropped naturals and expansive African locks, Black women are taking the concept of personal expression via hair to new heights. Unlike periods in the recent past, Sisters are not limited in creativity or variety, and are finding acceptance for styles that once were frowned upon or considered appropriate only for the bold and artistic.

Many Black women continue to have their hair relaxed or chemically straightened, but what makes the '90s different is the abundance of styles that accommodate straight textures. Some Sisters choose to adorn themselves with short-short bobs popularized by Anita Baker and Halle Berry, while others prefer smooth swirls or intricate precision cuts. Still others choose longer, more lush lengths, with some even utilizing hair weaves to give extra length and volume.

At the same time, Black women increasingly opt for a more Afrocentric look--close-to-the-scalp, boyish trims, and some even go semibald. Close cuts may be curly, due to natural hair texture or the use of a texturizer or moisturizer, while others are updated versions of the Afro of the '60s and '70s. Whereas the Afro of that period was considered a social and political statement--"I'm Black and I'm proud" --today's Black woman wears her natural 'do for the same reason and to make a personal statement about hair freedom and herself.

Taking the natural theme a few steps farther are women who choose to sport braids, African locks (the preferred name for dread locks) and twists. In the '60s, actress Cicely Tyson made a bold statement with her cornrows and braids, which originated in Africa, and in the '90c there is an explosion of braided styles gracing the elegant heads of African-American women. In the early '80s, Black women who chose to wear braids sometimes were met with raised eyebrows and scorn. Corporate employees at times were told to get rid of their braids or face being fired. Law suits ensued and debates erupted in beauty shops, private homes, corporate suites and in the media. However, Black women would not be discouraged from adapting a hairstyle that many consider as natural and basic and African as the brown, copper and black hues of our skin.

Today, Black women in all walks of life--professionals, executives, creative artists, academicians, secretaries factory workers, stay-at-home moms --wear braids, which are chic, practical and beautiful. Sometimes they are short, sometimes in the shape of a bob or page boy; at braids that can be pulled down into a chignon or up into a ponytail or roll. Equally as popular as long plaits are beautiful cornrows, which have been adopted by a number of high-profile women, including Sen. Carol Moseley-Braun and Marian Wright Edelman, founder of the Children's Defense Fund in Washington, D.C.

In addition to displaying a variety of styles and lengths, Black women also are expressing individuality though vibrant hair color. There are blond Afros and braids, red shoulder-length page boys and golden African locks, and silver or multicolored close-cropped styles. Sometimes black or brown hair is accented with a block of color; it is common to see a head full of brown or black braids highlighted with a few blond or crimson plaits interwined.

Regardless of the coiffure or color a Black woman chooses at any particular time--and many do change hair color and styles often--it remains important to properly care for the hair and scalp. Many women who wear braids, cornrows, locks and the modern-day Afro do so in an attempt to find a hairstyle that is easy to care for without requiring blow dryers, hot curlers and other appliances. Hardworking women who must juggle career, marriage and motherhood, as well as various other interests, simply do not have a lot of time to spend on hair care.

However, it should be noted that braided styles require anywhere from six to ten hours of work every three months. While the short Afro is easy to maintain, it must be trimmed every two weeks or so to keep it looking fresh and neat. African locks also require regular shampooing and grooming.

The biggest challenge for women donning Afrocentric styles is dryness, for natural hair is more susceptible to split ends and frizziness. Keep hair healthy and vibrant by regularly shampooing and using conditioners. Moisturizers and oils for the scalp and hair also are important in maintaining natural styles, just as they are critical to permed and relaxed hair. Braids and locks should be washed once a week, and twice a week a small amount of oil should be massaged into the scalp and through the hair. Spray-on oil sheens can add luster to any hairstyle.

In the coming years, we can anticipate that Black women will continue to enjoy and even expand their hair-style choices. For every personality, career and event, and for every skin tone and facial structure, there are many options in this new era of hair freedom for Black women.