The gardening gourmet

Flower & Garden Magazine, Feb, 2002 by Kristen Prebich

We are at a time when we are desperately seeking comfort in our lives, and we naturally turn to those things that can provide solace. Food is definitely one of the obvious choices. When we are upset, we eat; when we are sad, we eat; and even when we are happy, we eat. We come together at our tables for many circumstances, be they happy, sad or healing. I had many ideas for this issue, different ways to launch us into the New Year, but in view of the times, I decided to talk about one of the most comforting foods I know: soup. It satisfies our senses of smell, taste and well-being, and consists of not only the ingredients that go into it, but also our time, effort and TLC.

When I first started researching soup for a short history of the topic, I thought, "The history of soup ... this one will definitely be interesting." It certainly is. Beginning quite simply with the question of who invented soup, it is believed that the word "soup" comes from the English word "sop" meaning a piece of bread soaked in liquid. Soup eventually replaced sop in the mid to late 1500s, when soup became commonly served without a piece of bread present and became a common part of the meal, being served as an appetizer, entree or even a dessert. Even though all of this is true, it has been determined that humans were preparing and eating some version of soup since the days of prehistoric man. There is no real knowledge, however, of the precise origins of boiling, but it is believed that man knew of this technique well before 6,000 B.C. when earthenware pottery was discovered.

Almost all people have soup as part of their culture or ethnicity. The Spanish have gazpacho, the French have bouillabaisse and the Italians have pasta e fagioli, but throughout history, the Chinese were really the first group to realize the tremendous potential of soup. They developed everything from gourmet soups, such as shark's fin soup, to simpler everyday soups, such as bean curd with whatever local vegetables were available. As I mentioned, soup can be served at any part of the meal; the Chinese actually serve warm, clear soup as a beverage with their meals the way Americans would drink water, soda or juice. The Chinese were also the first to believe and profess the healing power of soup and its many ingredients.

No matter what culture, however, all will agree that the secret to good soup starts with a good stock. One of the first things taught in culinary school is how to make a stock, which is the foundation for many recipes. What exactly is stock? Stock is a liquid broth made from meat, bones, vegetables and herbs simmered for a period of time to impart their flavor into the broth. There are different types of stock, with chicken, beef and vegetable being the most common. All stocks are basically made the same way but with different ingredients. Later I am going to give you a recipe for stock that you will be able to modify for any you make.

Before I move on to recipes, I would like to discuss one last area, and that is which soup should be served with what course. There are many different types of soups out there, ranging from consommes and broths to chowders and stews. Serving the right soup at the right time can only enhance your meal. Thin soups, such as the consommes and broths, are typically served in two ways, either as a beverage replacement, or more commonly for in our culture, between courses. Thin soups are a great way to prepare the palate for the next course, especially if different flavors are being utilized throughout the meal. Thick soups, on the other hand, are most appropriately served as the main entree for lunch or dinner. Because of their heartiness, thick soups, such as the chowders and stews, would most likely be too filling as an appetizer (for some).

Stocks, to reiterate, are the foundation and flavor for many recipes. The ingredients you put into your stock will undoubtedly affect the final outcome of your recipe. One of the key ingredients to good stock are the herbs and spices you use. Even though it's winter and for many of you, your outdoor gardens are probably dormant, this is the perfect time to take advantage of an indoor herb garden. It's not difficult to cultivate and will enhance your soup, as well as other winter dishes. Talk to your local nursery about getting one started. The herbs you use in soup are your personal choice, but they often include basil, dill, rosemary, parsley, thyme, peppercorns and bay leaves. Try to use fresh herbs when available, as this can make a notable difference. There are two ways to incorporate the herbs into your soup. The first and easiest way is to coarsely chop the herbs and add them to the water. If you would rather not have the herbs directly in the water, the second option is to make a "bouquet garni," which is done by placing the herbs in a piece of cheesecloth, tying it with a string and dropping into the water. This is a popular way to add flavor to your liquid.

The second key ingredient to good stock are the bones and/or meat you select. If you are making chicken stock, chicken bones are used; for beef stock, use beef bones. If I know I will be making a stock, I will save the bones from other recipes and freeze them until I am ready to use. However, you can always purchase the bones you need from your local butcher shop or supermarket.