Getting answers

Flower & Garden Magazine, Feb, 2002 by John Ebert

QUESTION: Last spring I planted some paper-white narcissus bulbs outdoors that had been forced during the winter. In October, the bulbs sprouted leaves, but no blooms. Is there a way to rebloom paper-whites?

--Prince Frederick, MD

ANSWER: Many of us find it nearly impossible to discard plants once they have finished blooming. Thus, we nurture old poinsettias and cyclamen, the hopelessly temperamental azalea, skeletons of ornamental peppers and Persian violets, and yes, even paper-whites, well beyond the time any florist would have expected us to toss them on the compost pile.

Unlike many other narcissi, paper-whites are native to Mediterranean climates. They are not winter-hardy in temperate zones. Although their winter-blooming characteristics make them perfect candidates for forcing, this same trait constitutes major obstacles for trying to keep the bulbs from year to year. The sensible decision: buy fresh bulbs each fall, enjoy the blooms, then add the faded plants to your compost bin.

If you insist on saving your paper-whites, don't expect to achieve the same profusion of flowers the second winter. Gently transfer the bulbs to large azalea-type pots of gritty soil after blooms have faded. Take care not to damage the matted roots. Fill with soil up to the junction of bulb neck and foliage. Soak the pot thoroughly and lace in an outdoor cold frame that receives full sun.

When spring arrives, move the pot to a warm area--even setting it on concrete--to simulate the hot summers these bulbs endure in their native climate. This technique will encourage the necessary dormancy during summer months.

Repot in forcing pans as the bulbs begin to send up foliage in fall and treat as you would newly purchased bulbs. Perhaps your sense of satisfaction at reblooming the paper-whites will make up for the reduced number of flowers.

Q: I have a "white fig tree" at my Florida home. If possible, could you give me some information as to pruning the tree? --Bronx, NY

A: Without more specific identification of your tree as to genus-species-variety, it is extremely difficult to prescribe pruning practices. Assuming you have an edible fig, generally pruning is mainly confined to removing dead wood and removing some of the taller growing limbs or stems to reduce plant size. Remember that pruning will stimulate growth very near the location of the cut--so you may want to severely cut some limbs in order to "bring the growth down." For more in-depth ideas on pruning, see page forty-six of the November 2001

Q: Four years ago, I planted a bed of 30 iris rhizomes. They bloomed well for two years, but not after that. Following a recommendation, I applied wood ash to encourage flowering, but it has not helped. Can you make a suggestion? --Delran, NJ

A: Bearded iris cultivars grow and bloom best planted in full sun in well-drained, loamy soil of moderate fertility and a neutral pH. Manure and compost should not be applied to bearded iris plantings, though they may be worked deeply into heavy or light soils prior to planting. Fertilizing generally is done with a low nitrogen mix such as 5-10-10, or even an "alfalfa fertilizer" such as 6-24-24. Scatter a moderate handful around each plant in early spring and again after flowers fade.

Q: How are green manures used? --Toledo, OH

A: Green manuring refers to the practice of growing a crop to be plowed or tilled into the soil and allowed to decompose, thereby increasing the soils organic content. It is frequently done on a large scale in commercial orchards and nurseries, but can also benefit soils in home vegetable or cutting gardens.

A winter-hardy crop is planed in late summer or fall after the soil is tilled and fertilized. The crop may be a cereal, such as rye, wheat or winter oats, or in milder climates, a winter growing legume or cole-wart. These plants grow through the cool season, and in spring, before they are too tall to manage, they are turned under with a spade or plow.

Summer green manuring may be done after an early crop is removed, or may take the form of a between-the-rows crop. Buckwheat, mustard, rape, or fast-growing legumes, such as vetches or crimson clover, can be used. These, too, are turned under when they have developed fibrous stems but are still of a size to be completely buffed by spading or plowing.

John Ebert has a degree in horticulture and is co-owner and operator of the last working family farm in the township of Cherry Hill, NJ. As well as retailing the produce grown on the farm at their market, John's family also specializes in the production and culture of over 350 varieties of herbs, as well as perennials, bedding and vegetable plants. For more information on John's most interesting farm, questions on this article or other plant-related issues, email him at sfm@juno.com.