Regional Digest
Flower & Garden Magazine, April, 1999
SOUTH
Spring is the ideal time to set out fall blooming perennials. Existing ones may be divided and new ones purchased at this time for maximum fall display. We have a large number of easily grown plants that can extend the color season through fall.
Chrysanthemums are the first that come to mind. It is best to select garden mums rather than to recycle florist pot mums into the garden. Growing mums as perennials has lost some of its popularity due to the easy availability of 4- and 6-inch garden-ready plants in early fall. If you choose to grow them as perennials it is best to divide or root cuttings of your favorite selections in midspring, placing them into permanent locations before hot weather sets in. Pinch them back several times during the summer growing season and keep them well-watered.
Other excellent choices for fall display include autumn aster (Aster oblongifolius), Mexican marigold mint (Tagetes lucida), Mexican bush sage (Salvia leucantha) and obedient plant (Physostegia virginiana). Some vines that make great fall displays include sweet autumn clematis and coral vine (Zones 8-10) (Antigonon leptopus). Guernsey lily (Lycoris radiata) and oxblood lily (Rhodophiala bifida) can provide drifts of red in partially shaded or sunny areas, and they are often found naturalized on old home sites and cemeteries.
Preparation is a key to success with vegetables since most of our soils are low in organic material and fertility. For new areas apply glyphosate-type herbicide according to label instructions a couple of weeks before tilling or scrape off existing grass or weed growth. Apply several inches of organic material such as rotted hay, shredded leaves, compost or composted pine bark. It is best to have a recent soil test before applying fertilizer, but if that isn't practical apply 3 to 5 pounds of a balanced fertilizer such as 13-13-13 per 100 square feet. Then till several times to a depth of 8 to 10 inches. Form rows and begin planting as weather allows.
Potatoes and onions should be planted very early, preferably in February or early March in most of the South. A spring crop of mustard greens, turnips, collards, cabbage and broccoli should also be set out early and will tolerate some frost. Tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, squash, melons and other cold-sensitive vegetables should be put out after danger of frost has passed.
Fresh vegetables are a joy to have and spring is the ideal time to try some. Lettuces, arugula, French sorrel and parsley will all tolerate some frost and are great for fresh salads.
The most successful gardens are usually relatively small and well-tended. This means keeping weeds in check, frequently cultivating, checking for pest and watering as needed."
Container-grown trees and shrubs are at their peak of availability at this time. Roses are also available in containers and can be safely transplanted through spring if irrigation can be provided while their roots establish themselves. Warm-season annuals to be set out after danger of frost is past include celosia, impatiens, fibrous rooted begonias, petunias, nicotiana, coleus, geraniums, zinnias, marigolds, torenias and touch-me-nots. Wait until the soil has warmed to about 70 F (usually in May) before planting caladiums, globe amaranth and Madagascar periwinkle.
--William C. Welch
MID-AMERICA
Preventive maintenance is an important way to begin the gardening season. Fruit trees, landscape trees and some shrubs may benefit from a dormant oil application before they leaf out. Overwintering scale, aphids and mites are pests that may be controlled. In early spring apply preemergent herbicides for grassy weed control in lawns and strawberry beds.
One of the best known biological pest controls is the bacteria, Bacillus thuringiensis, available under several trade names. It is excellent for control of cabbage worms. Strains for control of tomato hornworm, Colorado potato beetle and cornborer are also available. Among other biologicals are beneficial nematodes for control of grubs, iris borers, cutworms and wireworms.
When planting trees and shrubs, allow enough space for their full development. Many flowering shrubs need a width similar to their mature height. Exceptions are groundcover plants, such as spreading junipers. Determine how much space a new plant will need when mature, and provide it. If the newly planted area seems bare, fill it with temporary plants such as annual flowers.
Don't ignore the beauty that can be provided by flowering vines during summer. Use them to cover fences, arbors, obelisks, posts and practically any vertical item. Annual vines such as morning glory, moon vine, cup-and-saucer vine and hyacinth bean are a few to grow from seeds. Clematis plants are among the best of perennial vines for flowers of many different colors and forms.
In gardens with limited space, using fruit trees that need cross-pollination may be impossible because there isn't enough room for two trees. However, there are a few varieties of cross-pollinating fruits that are self-pollinating. Examples include the sweet cherry, `Starkrimson,' and the pear, `Stark Honeysweet.' Peaches, sour cherries and American plums are naturally self-pollinating, so single trees of these types are fruitful.



