Roses The Straight Scoop Part 2 - planting tips

Flower & Garden Magazine, March, 2001 by Ann Hooper

Most of the rose catalogs have arrived in your mailbox-and if they haven't, there's a great resource guide at the end of this article. So now what?

You've probably already decided whether you have a great spot for climbers, if you want a bed of colorful miniatures, or if you yearn for the majestic beauty of a perfect hybrid tea. The varieties you choose are mostly a matter of personal preference. Of course, some varieties of roses may do better in one climate than another, but most reputable rose sellers are very honest about each variety's climatic preference. If, however, you see a variety you can't live without, even if it's not expected to perform well in your climate, it won't hurt to give it a try anyway. For many years, I've grown a wonderful specimen of the variety `Uncle Joe.' Most catalogs will tell you that it likes hot weather and may not do well in cooler climates. What they really mean is that it has so many petals the rose won't open if the weather's not really hot. Sure, some of the flowers on my plant never open, especially in the spring, but I've won many a Queen of the Show with `Uncle Joe' in the early fall after a hot August. And the huge red blooms are so spectacular, they're worth waiting for.

Shopping for rosebushes is a wonderfully pleasant pastime, assuming you don't feel compelled to buy every one in the catalog or garden center! Even if you start growing roses on a small scale, you'll no doubt end up making room for more plants after your first successful season of growing roses, so it's best to exercise a little restraint the first time out.

If you're a really green (!) rosarian, you can't go wrong with rose varieties that have been named All-America Rose Selections. These varieties have been tested in gardens in all climates and have been judged to be good performers in all parts of the country. Rose catalogs always designate which varieties are AARS award winners, and there is always an AARS tag wired to the plant.

Once you've ordered your roses, you have to make a delicious place for them to grow and thrive. Bed preparation is the basis of successful rose culture. It's not hard and roses aren't really all that fussy, but the creation of a proper rosebed can mean the difference between mediocre roses and absolutely fabulous ones.

Prepare your rosebed before your roses arrive, since they must be planted very shortly after you receive them. If you plan to mix them with other perennials, your bed is probably already prepared, and all you'll need to do is dig a hole. If you're planning a new rosebed, however, you should make sure your soil has really good drainage, that your plants will receive at least six hours of sun every day, and that your soil is sweet and humus-y.

Soil should contain a good mix of sand, clay, and humus. If you have poor soil, you'll be much more successful if you remove all of it from the bed and import some good loam and compost. A soil test is always advisable, but at the very least, get a soil pH test. Roses grow best when soil pH is between 5.8 and 6.3. Dramatically higher or lower pH will make it impossible for the plants to glean any benefit from the fertilizer you apply. Limestone will raise pH, and aluminum sulfate will lower pH. In many parts of the country, acid rain has lowered the pH of the soil, so chances are you'll have to apply lime rather than a product to lower pH.

Now is the time to add any of the soil amendments, such as bone meal, blood meal, or superphosphate, that provide a slow, continuous supply of phosphorus. These elements do not travel in the soil and must already be in the vicinity of the roots to provide any benefit. So mix them thoroughly with the soil.

Good drainage is, perhaps, even more important than good soil. If you fill your planting hole with water and it takes more than ten minutes to drain away, you may want to think about planting your roses somewhere else.

Here's the "old saw" of the month: Don't dig a 50 [cents] hole to plant a $25.00 rosebush. Of course, when I first heard it, it was a $10.00 rosebush. Times have indeed changed, but for the years of enjoyment a rosebush can bring, it's definitely worth the price! Your rose hole should be two feet deep and two feet in diameter. This will give the roots plenty of room to spread out and allow you to adjust your rosebush to the correct planting height.

New rose plants end up in your possession in a variety of ways.

Choose the one (or all) that's most convenient for you.

* MAILORDER ROSES

Except for miniature roses and very young own-root plants, mailorder roses arrive "bareroot." Lest you need an explanation of the term, bareroot roses have naked roots, and the plants are dormant. These plants have been harvested from the rose fields--mostly in California and Arizona--and kept in cold storage until shipping time. Commercial rose growers are very particular about the care of their roses during this time, ensuring that large, healthy, moist plants are shipped to their customers.

Bareroot roses arrive on your doorstep at the correct planting time in your part of the country, carefully packaged in plastic or some other material that keeps the plant moist during shipping. If the roots or the canes are allowed to dry out, it is unlikely the plant will grow once it's planted. Therefore, it's vital to treat your rose plants well after they arrive.