Spaghetti Squash

Flower & Garden Magazine, June, 1999 by Kris Wetherbee

When I first heard about spaghetti squash I was skeptical. I mean really, how can a squash look like spaghetti? But this is definitely a squash with its own agenda. This squash is unlike the familiar smooth orange version that's served up as a side dish at Thanksgiving dinner.

The flesh of spaghetti squash is magical, emerging' into fine, crunchy strands similar to spaghetti noodles. Its comical character can take on a number of disguises in endless ways that can be enjoyed almost any time of the year. And its mild, somewhat nutty taste allows the full flavor of any sauce to really come through. Try it in place of any pasta, or in a variety of dishes including stews, chili, salads, pancakes or stir-fries.

Spaghetti squash (Cucurbita Pepo) belongs to the same winter squash family as acorns, dumplings and delicatas. The term "winter squash" can be confusing since it's really harvested in the fall. Yet when kept in a cool (45 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit), dry location, it can be stored and eaten right through the winter -- therefore the phrase, "winter squash."

Spaghetti squash fruits are oblong, with smooth yellow or orange skin, depending on which variety you grow. There's a variety to fill any gardener's needs, whether you garden in the ground or in containers.

The compact growth of `Tivoli' is perfect for small-space gardens and container growing, since it matures in 90 to 100 days. In just a couple of feet of garden space, this 1991 AAS Winner produces large creamy yellow fruits that are up to 10 inches long. `Vegetable Spaghetti' has long vines (up to 10 feet) that you can train to grow vertically up any trellis or fence. Support heavy 2- to 4-pound fruits with slings made of pantyhose or other stretchy fabric. The butter yellow fruits mature in about 100 days. `Hasta La Pasta' offers a tasty treat that's high in vitamin A. These compact plants are productive with slightly smaller, vivid orange fruits that are delicious in salads.

LOCATION

The simplicity and fascination of spaghetti squash make it a vegetable anyone can have fun growing and eating. Even my heavy clay soil hasn't dampened its enthusiastic growth, as long as I lighten the soil with lots of organic matter. Squash really takes off when grown in a warm, sunny location with well-drained, rich soil. Slightly acidic soil is best, with the soil pH ranging from 5.5 to 7.0.

PLANTING

In my Pacific Northwest garden, I transplant four- to six-week-old seedlings at the end of May or the first week of June. Even though my average last spring frost is in mid-April, our wet and chilly spring soil temperatures can inhibit seedling growth or even rot seeds if they're set out too early. Before planting, wait until the soil has warmed and all danger of frost has passed. If planting directly from seed, the soil temperature should be 60 F. Black or clear plastic can speed things up by warming the soil even faster.

Work in a good shovelful of compost or aged manure for each hill, or use about 1/2 cup of complete organic fertilizer, with an additional 1/2 cup applied after the plants begin to vine. My favorite fertilizer is aged rabbit manure.

Plant several seeds together in a group, 1 to 1-1/2 inches deep, or if using seedlings, 2 to 3 plants per hole. Space compact varieties 2 feet apart, with rows 4 feet apart. Vining varieties should be spaced about 4 feet apart, With rows set 4 to 6 feet apart. When growing vertically, space seeds or plants 15 to 18 inches apart.

CARE

Control weeds with shallow cultivation or through the use of organic mulch in hot southern areas or black plastic in cool northern areas. Using mulch conserves moisture, keeping it even throughout the season. Summer rains are almost nonexistent in my area, so our plants receive water twice a week through an in-line dripper irrigation system. Plants should get about an inch of water a week.

Each plant will have its own set of male and female flowers, a term known as monoecious. Male blossoms come first. Female flowers will have a large swelling just beneath the flower which will develop into fruit if pollinated by bees or other insects. But don't worry about this pollination creating strange-looking fruit. Cross-pollination will only affect the fruits grown next year from this year's cross-pollinated seed. Commercially grown seed has been isolated by plantings to prevent this. So if you're planning on saving seed, you'll need to hand-pollinate the female flower, then isolate it (cover with a paper bag) from any pollinating insects.

Speaking of insects, cucumber beetles (both striped and spotted), squash bugs and vine borers are your main concerns. Vine borers, caterpillars that bore into the stems of squash vines, can be controlled with a hot pepper/garlic repellent spray, or by mounding mulch or soil over the vines. Trichogramma wasps are natural, effective predators and can be ordered from your local garden center or purchased through a commercial insectary.

Squash bugs lay masses of yellow-orange eggs on the undersides of leaves. Encourage tachinid flies, a natural predator, or try companion planting of radishes, nasturtiums or marigolds to repel the pests. Always be sure to rotate your planting every year and clean up end-of-season garden debris to expose any bugs to hungry birds.