Regional Digest

Flower & Garden Magazine, Nov, 1999 by J. Robert Nuss, Ray R. Rothenberger, Marianne Binetti, William C. Welch, Jeri Cretti, John Cretti, Keith Muraoka, Denise Cerny, Fred V. Jackson

MID-ATLANTIC

Continue lawn maintenance while the grass is growing. Grass that's cut to the proper height will overwinter better than long, matted tuff. Remove all fallen leaves and debris from the lawn to prevent winter smothering. Test the soil now if turf quality has been poor.

Plant spring-flowering bulbs now -- smaller bulbs and daffodils as soon as they are available, and tulips and hyacinths on the nicer days in fall. If squirrels and chipmunks are present, cover the beds with chicken wire to prevent animals from digging.

Cut back the tops and remove dead stems on herbaceous perennials. Protect these plants from winter heaving with a thick layer of coarse mulch. Apply the mulch after the soil surface begins to freeze.

Add all garden refuse and fallen leaves to the compost pile. Turn the pile once more before the weather turns cold. Make certain it is moist enough to work properly.

Continue to deeply water evergreens and other landscape plants. Well-watered plants will be less stressed over winter. Fall applications of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers will work into the root zone over winter to assist spring growth. Do not apply nitrogen fertilizer in the fall; it often leaches below the root zone and adds to ground water pollution.

Vegetable root crops can be stored over winter in the garden under a thick layer of mulch. Wait until soil temperatures go down before applying the mulch, but don't allow the soil to freeze. Plant lettuce and hardy vegetables such as beets, cabbage, and spinach in cold frames for winter and early spring crops in warmer areas.

Place wire guards around the base of small fruit trees and flowering crab apples to protect them from mice and rabbits. Keep grass and mulch layers several inches away from all plant stems to eliminate mouse cover.

Clean, sharpen and repair all garden tools now so they will be ready for use next spring.

-- J. Robert Nuss

MID-AMERICA

October is an excellent month for planting bulbs. For the earliest flowers of spring, choose varieties of Crocus chrysanthus, commonly called snow crocus. Dwarf iris, such as Iris danfordiae and Iris reticulata are also quite early. Those in the southern part of the region (Zone 6) can try the iris-like Hermodactylus tuberosus.

Many narcissus varieties with pink cups are available. Favorites in my garden include `Accent,' `Salome,' `Bell Song' and `Palmares.' Reverse bicolors (narcissi with yellow petals and white trumpets) blend well with many spring flowers. For beginners, try `Daydream' or `Honeybird.'

If summer-flowering bulbs have not yet been dug and stored, do not delay any longer. Most of the hardier bulbs, such as gladiolus and dahlia, need cool storage (near 40 degrees Fahrenheit). Tropical types, such as elephant ear and caladium, need warmer storage (between 50 and 60 degrees).

Trees and shrubs that produce colorful fruit enhance the landscape in the fall and provide food for birds. Flowering crabs, hawthorns and flowering dogwood are flowering trees with this advantage. Some fruit-bearing shrubs are American cranberrybush viburnum, winterberry holly, pyracantha and staghorn sumac.

Winter squash and pumpkins need prompt harvesting as soon as they mature. Frost and freeze temperatures can actually shorten their storage life. After harvest, condition them with about 10 days at temperatures from 75 to 80 degrees. After that time store them at temperatures near 60 degrees with low humidity. Lower temperatures make them more subject to rot, while higher temperatures cause them to become stringy.

Mulch is undoubtedly an asset to any garden. It provides winter protection for perennials with shallow root systems. Coarse mulch, such as oak leaves or straw, may be applied 3 to 4 inches deep. Denser mulches, like compost or sawdust, need be applied only 2 inches deep. Do not heavily mulch plants that maintain green shoots all winter. Even though plants are not growing actively, light must be able to reach the green leaves.

-- Ray R. Rothenberger

PACIFIC NORTHWEST

Autumn in the Pacific Northwest is like a second spring and offers some of the best working weather of the year. This is a great time to install a new lawn by seed or sod, or renovate an old lawn by topdressing with soil and reseeding on top of the old tuff.

The mild weather also means your container gardens and bedding plants can continue to bloom if you remember to water, fertilize and deadhead. If the petunias have grown leggy and the snapdragons are spotted with rust, go ahead and rip out what's ugly and replace with fall flowers. Hardy asters, ornamental cabbage and kale, and fall and winter pansies will give months more color, and the autumn-blooming mums will not only add mounds of flowers, but will also return next fall.

October is a good month for dirt work (improving your soil). Add compost and manure to the vegetable and perennial gardens so the winter weather can soak in the nutrients. This is also a good time to dig and divide any perennial plants that seem tired. You can either push a shovel into the middle of the clump and move the side shoots to a new location, or in the case of fleshy roots such as daylilies, lift the entire clump, separate with a large knife and amend the soil before replacing the plants in the ground.