Four seasons of cabbage

Flower & Garden Magazine, March-April, 1997 by Lisa Ann LaFreniere

Whether it's sprucing up salads and stir-fries, adorning a hot dog or thrown into the traditional New England boiled dinner, cabbage has become an American staple. Any gardener who has chosen to omit this tasty crop should reconsider, for the sweet flavor and crunchy texture of garden-grown cabbage just can't be matched by grocery store produce.

Cabbage is easy to grow, my first try resulted in 30 perfect heads. The only problem was that they all matured at the same time, and many of the heads split long before I could use them. It was a gardening lesson learned the hard way and not soon forgotten. Planning realistically for your needs is the first step in growing this crop. Calculate the number of heads your family will consume during the growing season, as well as how many heads you want to put in storage for the long months of winter. Armed with this, information you can plan a staggered planting schedule for a nearly year-round supply of cabbage.

TIMING IT RIGHT

Timing is crucial to success with cabbage. Plant too late in the spring and hot weather will interfere with head development. Plant too late in the fall, especially in Northern areas, and a hard freeze could hit, making the heads useless for storage.

Garden centers often have a limited selection of cabbage seedlings for spring transplant and sometimes again in fall. You'll have a better selection of varieties, however, if you grow your own transplants from seed. Starting from seed is less expensive and gives you better control over planting dates; you can also control the early growing environment of the plants. To start cabbage seedlings indoors you need a good light source for the seedlings and the time and patience to care for them.

Remember that the number of days to maturity listed on seed packets is measured from the date of setting out four- to six-week-old seedlings. If you choose to sow seed directly in the garden, add four to six weeks to the expected maturity date.

Gardeners can ensure a steady harvest of cabbage through late spring and summer by planting several varieties with differing maturity dates. Extend the harvest of a favorite variety by planting a few seeds each week -- just be sure to leave plenty of time for the heads to develop before hot weather sets in. The last few heads of the spring-planted crop can be left in the garden during temporary hot spells either by giving them a quarter turn to sever some roots (use this method for fully developed heads) or by giving them extra water and providing them with shade. One gardener I know uses upended plastic milk crates to provide shade for her late-developing cabbages.

In my short-season area fall planting can be tricky; the seedlings must be started just as summer's hottest days arrive in late July. Yet cabbage seedlings grow best at temperatures around 60 degrees. To overcome this dilemma I start seedlings in the basement under grow lights and move them outside once the weather cools some. Although the choices for fall plantings in my New England garden are limited to those that will develop before our early fall frosts, Southern gardeners will have more of a selection. In either case look for variety descriptions such as "full," "heavy" or "firm," indicating a cabbage that will store well after harvest.

PLANTING THE CROP

Cabbage thrives in rich, fertile soil. To avoid cabbage diseases and pests that may be lurking in the soil, choose an area where no member of the cabbage family has grown for at least two years. These include kale, broccoli, brussels sprouts and cauli-flower. The area should be well tilled and fertilized several weeks prior to planting. My in-laws cover their entire garden with a thick layer of composted manure each spring and their cabbage thrives with the organic treatment.

Set the seedlings about 24 inches apart, or closer for small-headed varieties. A small handful of an equal mixture of coffee grounds, bonemeal and wood ashes, worked into the soil around each seedling, provides an extra benefit, alone or in addition to the manure. Commercial fertilizers are another option. To get your seedlings off to a good start see "Tips for Transplanting" at right.

Cabbage needs plenty of water throughout the growing season to promote proper head development. While many plants thrive with an occasional, thorough soaking, this isn't true of cabbage. Its shallow root system requires a steady supply of moisture.

A layer of mulch can help conserve moisture as well as keep the plant clean and reduce the need for weeding. If cultivating is necessary, be careful not to damage the root system. Avoid plastic mulches, either clear or colored, or any dark-colored mulches, for they can raise soil temperatures. I have had success using dried grass clippings to mulch around my cabbage plants. My second choice for a mulch would be compost; although it allows some weeds to pop up around the cabbages, its nutrients give the plants an extra boost, especially late in the growing season.

PESTS AND WHAT TO DO