Nuts for peanuts

Flower & Garden Magazine, March-April, 1998 by Michelle Howell

It's a lie! The peanut isn't really a nut at all.

Peanuts are legumes that grow underground like

potatoes. Americans consume an average of 12 pounds of

"goobers" per person per year. Demand for the peanut -- also

known as ground peas or monkey nuts -- adds more

than $4 billion to the U.S. economy each year.

Whatever you decide to call the popular impostor,

peanuts have one characteristic that appeals to gardeners

everywhere. They are surprisingly easy to grow! If you

live where the growing season is at least four frost-free

months long, get ready to plant and harvest.

SOILS AND FERTILITY

I have grown peanuts in several states, in multiple soil

types, and with little or no attention. In spite of the

varying conditions and lack of care, I've always had respectable

harvests.

If you have a choice, plant peanuts in well-drained,

sandy soil and full sun. Shade slows growth and reduces

yields. Soggy soil results in poor growth, unformed pods

and even decay. Avoid soils with high levels of organic

matter or plant residue. Peanuts are more prone to

diseases in these soils. The perfect soil pH for peanuts is

around 6.0, although they produce well over a wide soil

pH range.

Grow peanuts in rotation with plants that are resistant

to nematodes and soil-borne diseases. Corn is a good

choice. Allow two years between planting peanuts or

other legumes on the same spot.

If another well-fertilized crop precedes your peanut

crop, the residual fertilizer is all you'll need. Direct

fertilization rarely increases the yield, or quality, of peanuts. If

you do fertilize, do so prior to planting. Never apply

potassium fertilizers after peanuts have emerged, as the

high levels of potassium and other nutrients can result in

unfilled pods or pod rot.

Because peanuts, like other legumes, can capture and

utilize nitrogen from the air, they rarely need additional

nitrogen fertilizer.

PLANTING PEANUTS

At least one month before planting, turn under any

leftover plant residue from the previous crop. Smooth the

soil surface and remove clods. Wait until the soil warms in

spring before sowing seeds.

You can shell and plant raw peanuts, purchased in the

produce section of your supermarket. However, I

recommend purchasing seed from a reputable garden catalog or

at your local garden supply store. Seed sold for planting is

disease-free and treated with fungicide to help prevent

seedling diseases that may reduce stands.

Space seeds 2 to 4 inches apart in rows 24 to 30 inches

apart. In sandy soils, plant peanuts to a depth of 2 to 3

inches. In finer-textured soils, plant 1 to 2 inches deep. To

improve drainage, the top of the seed row should be

slightly above the ground between the rows.

Peanuts sprout in seven to 10 days. About one month

after emergence, the plants bloom and form "pegs"

(downward-growing shoots) that enter the soil. Peanuts

are unusual in that they flower above ground, but fruit

below ground. Peanut shells and kernels develop and

mature during the 60 to 70 days

following flowering. Depending on the

variety and intended use, peanuts

require from 120 to 160 frost-free

days for a good crop.

HOW TO HARVEST

Knowing when to harvest your

peanuts comes with experience.

Peanuts flower over a long period of

time, and the pods do not mature all

at once. Peanuts planted early, as

soon as the danger of frost is over,

require more time to mature than

crops planted during the warmer

months. Peanuts for boiling are

harvested at an earlier stage than those

harvested for roasting. The type and

variety also have a lot to do with

when to harvest. For instance.

Valencias mature earlier than Virginia

peanuts. Use the estimated days to

maturity for your variety as a guideline.

Yellowing foliage is another

clue that the peanuts are ready for

harvest. I like to harvest them over a

period of three to five weeks.

If your soil is sandy enough, you

can pull peanuts by hand; otherwise,

lift them with a spade or shovel. The

peanuts can be prepared by boiling

(see "Recipes for Home-Grown

Peanuts") as soon as they are

harvested. For roasting or storing,

cure the nuts first by allowing the

plants to dry in the sun for two or

three days. Gently shake the dirt

from the peanuts, then lay the plants

down with the peanuts facing up and

the leaves down. After curing, pick

the nuts from the plants and store

them in a dry location. If properly

dried and stored, peanuts will retain

their flavor for several months. (The

moisture content of stored peanuts

should not exceed 10 percent, but

who's to know?)

If you have more peanuts than

you can eat or store, turn under the

remaining peanut plants and work

them into your soil. They're an excellent

source of nitrogen.

TYPES OF PEANUTS

There are four basic types of

peanuts. Each type is distinctive in

size, flavor, and nutritional composition.

Within each type, you can

choose from several varieties.

Valencia. Many home gardeners

prefer Valencias because they are

sweet and mature early. Valencia

peanuts have three or four kernels

per pod and are easy to pick. They

are excellent roasted or boiled.

Popular varieties include `Tennessee

Red,' `New Mexico A,' `New Mexico