Spring-flowering trees

Flower & Garden Magazine, March-April, 1998 by Molly Dean

size of 30 to 40 feet!

An important point to remember about magnolias is

that, unlike most other spring-flowering trees, they are

best planted while in bloom. Their tender, fleshy roots

recover from transplanting more rapidly in spring, while

they are actively growing. Magnolias thrive in rich,

moisture-retentive soils and need to be protected from

strong winds and late frosts.

OTHER SPRING-FLOWERING TREES

The Eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis, Zone 4), often

seen growing wild in woodlands alongside dogwoods,

makes an excellent addition to home landscapes. This is a

small, sturdy tree that comes into flower a little later than

the plums, cherries and magnolias. Its rose-purple blossoms

are unusual, being borne in clusters and shaped like

pea blossoms. The flowers are followed by heart-shaped

green leaves that turn yellow in the fall.

Cultivars of the wild Chinese pear (Pyrus calleryana,

Zone 4) appear in more landscapes every year, and for

good reason. The old standard among ornamental pears,

`Bradford,' has been eclipsed by superior varieties such as

`Chanticleer,' `Aristocrat' and `Autumn Blaze.' As well

as abundant clustered white flowers and brilliant red fall

color, these trees have distinctive oval or rounded shapes

formed by their upright branches. Ornamental pears are

useful in formal gardens or streetside plantings. Like the

crab apple, this is a tough tree, able to tolerate many of

the stresses of city life.

If I had a very small garden and could only

choose one ornamental spring-flowering tree,

I would choose the weeping pear (Pyrus salici-folia

`Pendula' or `Silver Frost,' Zone 4). This

tree isn't noted for its blossom, though it does

have delicate white flowers appearing at the

same time as the leaves. Instead, it is revered

for its drooping branches cloaked with lovely,

silver-gray, willowlike foliage. A well-known

weeping pear takes center stage at Vita

Sackville-West's much-photographed white

garden at Sissinghurst Castle in Kent,

England. This tree likes sun and well-drained

soil. Fireblight, a bacterial disease, can be a

significant problem in some areas.

PLANTING AND CARE

The roots of bare-root trees must never be

allowed to dry out. If you must wait a few days

before planting, keep the tree in a cool garage

with the roots surrounded by moist packing

material. A few hours before planting,

remove the packing and soak the roots in cool

water. Because bare-root plants are in a

dormant state, they should be planted in early

spring before they leaf out. In warm-winter

areas of the country, they may be planted in

the fall.

Chances are your local nursery sells trees

with an intact soil ball, either balled and

burlapped or container-grown plants. These trees

can be set into the ground at any time during the

growing season. In choosing your tree, check for

good overall shape, a firm and damp ball of

earth and, if the tree has leafed out, a fresh green

color.

Since trees, once established, become a permanent

part of the landscape, consider your

planting site carefully. Check soil requirements

and prefered exposure for each new tree. Dig a