Spring-flowering trees
Molly DeanNothing captures the idea of spring overcoming
the bleakness of winter better than a spring-flowering tree.
In what seems like a miracle, clouds of
blossoms cloak bare branches -- clouds that look as if
they might be blown away by a single puff of wind.
Some of the earliest blooms have a particularly fragile,
fleeting quality, perhaps because of their inevitable war
with what remains of winter. Late snowfalls or freezing
rain sometimes does its
best to spoil the moment.
In other springs,
however, the magnolias and
cherries burst into blossom
during a halcyon
period of warm, sunny
days that last and last.
These are the truly magical
times that cause so
many gardeners to go
dashing off to nurseries
to buy a few more flowering
trees. Considering
their vast number and
diversity, choosing an
ornamental tree can be difficult.
CHERRIES AND PLUMS
Ornamental plums are
among the best small
trees for home gardens.
Plums belong to the large
genus Prunus, which also
includes almonds,
apricots, peaches and cherries.
In my area of the country, the northeast Georgia
mountains, plums usually come to life in March. Their
dark, twiggy branches cloaked with soft, feathery-looking
flowers have always reminded me of Oriental paintings.
The flowering plum (Prunus x blireiana, winter hardy
to U.S.D.A. Zone 5) is one of the first of all flowering
trees to bloom. It bears masses of double pink flowers,
often mistaken for those of a cherry. The blossoms
appear before the bronzy-red leaves and are so profuse
that they nearly hide the stems.
The leaves of the purple-leaf plum (P. cerasifera
`Atropurpurea,' Zone 3) remain a distinctive purple-red
throughout the summer. This unusual color make this
tree highly ornamental; however, the purple-leaf plum
also has other pleasing attributes. The tree itself grows
into a graceful fanlike form, usually 20 to 25 feet tall.
Single, pale pink flowers
are followed by attractive
purple fruits that are small
but edible.
Ornamental plum trees
may be planted in any well-drained,
fertile soil in full
sun or light shade.
In general, plum trees
are described as having an
elegant yet rugged appearance;
their flowering creates
a subtle effect in the
landscape. Less subtle are
the flowering cherries.
Flowering cherries are
admired the world over,
but perhaps nowhere more
than in Japan. Japanese
gardeners value not only
the soft, luscious-looking
flowers, but also the general
artistic effect of the
trees -- their form, bark
texture, foliage and color.
The best-known flowering
cherries on this continent
are those surrounding the Tidal Basin in Washington,
D.C. Prominent in this planting is the Yoshino cherry
(Prunus yedoensis, Zone 5) -- a tree that inspires fanatical
devotion. I know a gardener whose main objection to
moving from the handsome older home where she had
lived for 20 years was the idea of being parted from her
own Yoshinos. This cherry possesses an exquisite beauty:
its profusion of small, faintly fragrant flowers range from
soft blush pink to white and give an ethereal, misty effect.
These flowers open in early spring, like those of the plum,
even before the leaves appear. The Yoshino is a
fast-growing, bushy tree, often achieving a height of 25 feet.
The cherry I am especially devoted to is the weeping
Higan cherry (Prunus subhirtella `Pendula,' Zone 5). Last
spring my own weeping cherry, which I had planted about
six years before, finally achieved a degree of glorious
maturity, with branches cascading to the ground. It
looked for all the world like a shimmering pink fountain.
"Please don't carry on about it any more," members of
my family begged after hearing my frequent rhapsodies
of admiration for the tree. I must state, however, that it
was an incredible sight against the green of
spring grass or a clear blue sky. It is hard to
envision a better specimen tree, graceful and
elegant throughout all seasons. I also enjoy the
muted color of its foliage in the fall; the leaves
turn a subtle yellow with overtones of apricot
and peach.
The list of lovely cherries goes on and on.
The showy, ruffled flowers of Prunus serrulata
`Kwanzan' (Zone 5) are a deeper, rosier pink,
sometimes criticized as being "unsubtle." This is
one of the easiest-to-grow ornamental trees,
often reaching the impressive size of 30 feet or more.
Prunus serrulata `Shogetsu' (Zone 5) gives an airy,
delicate look to a garden, almost as if a cloud has come down
to rest. Its many-petalled flowers are pale pink and white.
Almost all cherries prefer full sun or light shade and
should be planted in moist, well-drained soil.
CRAB APPLES
A treat last spring was to see a wild crab apple tree
blooming in a neighbor's country garden. Admiring its
blush-pink blossoms, sweet-smelling and swarming with
bees, I was reminded of a white-blossomed tree at my
childhood home. My mother chose and planted it when I
had barely begun grade school; I believe it was a Sargent
crab apple (Malus sargentii, Zone 4). I still remember the
dark red "fairy apples," as I called them, that spilled on
the ground every fall.
Crab apples are admired for their fragrant single or
double blossoms, which may be white, rosy-pink, burgundy
or deep reddish violet. The fruits, attractive to
birds, are usually 2 inches or less in diameter. Most
varieties produce edible fruits that can be used for jelly,
butter or pickles.
Being relatively small trees, crab apples are appropriate
choices for intimate settings. Despite their lovely
appearance, most have the ability to withstand city problems
such as traffic fumes and pollution. They are not
fussy about soils or cold winters (most are hardy to Zone
4). Leaf diseases can be a problem; look for varieties that
are resistant to apple scab, fireblight and cedar apple rust.
The Japanese flowering crab (Malus floribunda) is
noted for graceful, curving branches and fragrant, profuse
pink flowers. `Brandywine' has deeper tones than
others: warm rose-pink flowers and dark foliage flushed
with red. `Red Jade' is spectacular in fall with its bright
clusters of fruit, hanging heavily from arching branches.
This cultivar bears single white flowers that open from
deep pink buds.
MAGNOLIAS
A scene remains etched on my mind from years ago: a
glimpse into a walled garden in Suffolk, England, with a
white rope hammock strung between trees and encircled
with a grove of saucer magnolias. Above, blossoms like
great rosy-purple tulips still clung to leafy branches. The
grass below was covered with a carpet of their petals.
For sheer visual impact, it is hard to beat the magnolias.
These small, generally slow-growing trees produce
fragrant flowers with a uniquely exotic look. The strong
fragrance is difficult to describe; sometimes its seems to
have a hint of lemon, sometimes the heavy sweetness I
associate with Oriental lilies.
One of the first magnolias to bloom is the star magnolia
(Magnolia stellata, Zone 3). Furry buds are discernible
on the tree during the winter; then come the double white
blossoms, which have, indeed, a very starry effect.
Because of its low branching habit, the star magnolia is
often grown as a large shrub. I have seen specimens 20
feet tall, with lower branches trailing to the ground.
My family enjoys a `Merrill' magnolia (Magnolia
x loebneri `Merrill,' Zone 4) as a specimen tree on a
section of lawn next to a white bird bath. This is a
white-flowering magnolia, loosely pyramidal in shape and
faster-growing than other varieties. Another early
magnolia, it comes into bloom a week or more before the
popular saucer magnolias.
The saucer magnolia (Magnolia x soulangiana, Zone
5) must be one of the most photographed flowering trees.
Its leathery-textured, long-lasting flowers are rosy-purple
on the outside and white inside. Smooth, silvery-gray
bark and shapely branches give the tree visual appeal in
winter. Many good cultivars exist, including the
late-blooming `Alexandrina.'
One of my goals is to plant one of the yellow-flowering
magnolias, which look so appealing in catalogs. Magnolia
acuminata cordata `Miss Honeybee' (Zone 5) is one I've
admired; it has unusual blossoms of a clear, bright yellow
with twisted petals. This variety of the yellow cucumber
tree is unusually vigorous and may eventually attain a
size of 30 to 40 feet!
An important point to remember about magnolias is
that, unlike most other spring-flowering trees, they are
best planted while in bloom. Their tender, fleshy roots
recover from transplanting more rapidly in spring, while
they are actively growing. Magnolias thrive in rich,
moisture-retentive soils and need to be protected from
strong winds and late frosts.
OTHER SPRING-FLOWERING TREES
The Eastern redbud (Cercis canadensis, Zone 4), often
seen growing wild in woodlands alongside dogwoods,
makes an excellent addition to home landscapes. This is a
small, sturdy tree that comes into flower a little later than
the plums, cherries and magnolias. Its rose-purple blossoms
are unusual, being borne in clusters and shaped like
pea blossoms. The flowers are followed by heart-shaped
green leaves that turn yellow in the fall.
Cultivars of the wild Chinese pear (Pyrus calleryana,
Zone 4) appear in more landscapes every year, and for
good reason. The old standard among ornamental pears,
`Bradford,' has been eclipsed by superior varieties such as
`Chanticleer,' `Aristocrat' and `Autumn Blaze.' As well
as abundant clustered white flowers and brilliant red fall
color, these trees have distinctive oval or rounded shapes
formed by their upright branches. Ornamental pears are
useful in formal gardens or streetside plantings. Like the
crab apple, this is a tough tree, able to tolerate many of
the stresses of city life.
If I had a very small garden and could only
choose one ornamental spring-flowering tree,
I would choose the weeping pear (Pyrus salici-folia
`Pendula' or `Silver Frost,' Zone 4). This
tree isn't noted for its blossom, though it does
have delicate white flowers appearing at the
same time as the leaves. Instead, it is revered
for its drooping branches cloaked with lovely,
silver-gray, willowlike foliage. A well-known
weeping pear takes center stage at Vita
Sackville-West's much-photographed white
garden at Sissinghurst Castle in Kent,
England. This tree likes sun and well-drained
soil. Fireblight, a bacterial disease, can be a
significant problem in some areas.
PLANTING AND CARE
The roots of bare-root trees must never be
allowed to dry out. If you must wait a few days
before planting, keep the tree in a cool garage
with the roots surrounded by moist packing
material. A few hours before planting,
remove the packing and soak the roots in cool
water. Because bare-root plants are in a
dormant state, they should be planted in early
spring before they leaf out. In warm-winter
areas of the country, they may be planted in
the fall.
Chances are your local nursery sells trees
with an intact soil ball, either balled and
burlapped or container-grown plants. These trees
can be set into the ground at any time during the
growing season. In choosing your tree, check for
good overall shape, a firm and damp ball of
earth and, if the tree has leafed out, a fresh green
color.
Since trees, once established, become a permanent
part of the landscape, consider your
planting site carefully. Check soil requirements
and prefered exposure for each new tree. Dig a
hole that is wider than the soil ball, but only so
deep that the tree can rest at the same level as it
did in the nursery.
Avoid air pockets by firming the soil around
the roots. Water added to the partially filled hole also
helps to settle the soil. Finish the job by building up a
small ridge of soil to encircle the tree. Fill this "saucer"
with water several times a week until the tree's roots are
re-established and growth resumes.
Editor's note: Sources for spring-flowering trees are
listed.
COPYRIGHT 1998 KC Publishers, Inc.
COPYRIGHT 2008 Gale, Cengage Learning